HELP

[bit late]

Help needed to put carbs on my range rover as the E,F,I nuit does not work. Any one know how to do this and would come and help me do it?
I live in leighton buzzard....
                     PLEASE

[gords]

Or at least can someone detail the process? What to take off, what needs replacing/changing/etc.

This could prove to be very useful for me (Paul is my brother)

[Henry Webster]

Personally I would persevere with the EFI - its quite a hassle to change to carbs and get them set up right, if you are not already familiar with them.  

EFI systems are usually very reliable on resonably simple.  Do you know what is wrong with it.  Even big components are not particularly expensive, you can pick up air flow meters and ecus for possibly less than you could get a couple of decent carbs!

H

[bit late]

It just wont start did this befor so got replacment E C U and Air flow meter work ok for a shout time then did the same..Change plugs leads and cap as well..
Yes he might need the car  :shock:(OH yes he dose :lol: )

[gords]

Personally I would persevere with the EFI

Is there an easy way to test them (EFI units), or is it a case of swap bits until it works again?

[rangerider]

With no OBD port its keep swapping bits on early EFIs :(

The problem is swapping bits and knowing for sure that your replacement part is good. I had a stack of ECUs that were all supposedly good, only 1 would work properly in any truck, 2 more seemed to be picky about what they would work with.

I had a similar problem with a C reg efi, it turned out the engine was breathing a little hard and oil was gumming up the MAF & intakes. Starter spray and letting the breathers run to a collector sorted that one out for a while. The real fault when we had time to work on it was overfuelling. Check spark plugs for oil or over fuelling contamination. Temperature senders can fail leading the ECU to always over fuel (thinking cold start) this will soon foul the plugs within a matter of hours or days depending on usage.

[gords]

I had a similar problem with a C reg efi, it turned out the engine was breathing a little hard and oil was gumming up the MAF & intakes.

MAF ... what's that then? :?

[rangerider]

Sorry, Mass AirFlow sensor, on the intake pipe between the airbox & the plenum chamber. Measures airflow so the ecu can decide how much fuel to pump in for a given throttle setting. I guess I spent too long under the bonnets of rangies

[Henry Webster]

I've had a similar no-start problem after an AFM (or MAF) went down.  Ran the engine on the rich limp home mode for a bit (AFM disconnected - not recommended).  Fuelled up the plugs and then wouldn't start again.

New AFM and a new set of plugs sorted it.  What do the plugs look like?  It may be that it coked the plugs up if/when you had an AFM problem.  

If the AFM is at fault disconnecting it and seeing whether it will start may highlight the fault.  If it starts AFM probably at fault.

You can do some diagnostics, either with the LR TestBook, or by going through a routine of tests.  I think that the Haynes manual details these, otherwise there is a elctrical test manual that Land Rover published.

H

[Range Rover Blues]

Ah, careful there, MAF is the sort of thing used on a hotwire system, the 3.5 flapper is a VAF sensor, they are different things entirely.

If it's a hot-wire system it should be pretty tolerant.  I forgot to reconnect my MAF the other day, only realised when I saw this black cable not doing anything.  I'd been driving it round for a while by then.

[bit late]

Thanks I think, :-k  tried things still don't go. Looking more like the scrap yard for it.................  :(bigcry):

[gords]

What did you try Paul?

Have you talked to Joe Edwards, maybe he has some spare ECUs, sensors, etc that you can try?

If all else fails stick it on ebay - someone might buy it!    :lol:

[dazzawhipple]

Paul

Try this link here   http://www.carelect.demon.co.uk/rrp1.html

for problem solving

Darren

[Range Rover Blues]

If it's a 3.5 flapper EFi then they are pretty intolenant of faults but spare are cheap (you don't always know they are good though so get a guarantee if you can) but the later hot-wire is much better and does have diagnostic capability, all be it still quite simple.  However if you get the Haynes manual there are more than a dozen checks you can make yourself with nothing more than a multi tester and a few good tools.

Carbs, as has been hinted will cost you quite a lot for SUs and there is no guarantee that they won't be goosed either.  Failing that it's time for a 4-barrel :D

[jjsaul]

check things like the relays which operate the 9th injector etc....ours was dodgily connected and caused a few probs