springs

[disco-v8]

ok im after a 2" lift but ive been looking at loads of different versions of lift kits, but the thing that i cant understand is, what are those rings that come with the front springs and what do they do

also what actualy keeps the spring falling out of there mounts, or do all lift kits come as dislocating????? as some kits come with dislocation cones and some dont

basicaly im confussed and need as much info as possible

[AbyssDJ]

have a look on mm4x4, they have various kits from basic +2" kits to full off road kits with dislocation cones, long shocks, etc etc.

what are you lifting it for? more travel etc or just looks?

[Budgie]

The rings sit on top of the front springs and have four studs that go through the spring hanger and secure the shocker turret to the chassis.
They supply new ones with the kit because the studs normally snap off when you try to undo the nuts.  

The front springs arn't going to go that far as they have a shocker going down through the middle of them and the rears are clamped on to the axle by a plate.
The rears tend to dislocate at the top when the suspension is at full articulation. To stop this you can use cones so they relocate correctly or put two jubilee clips round the top coil of the spring and the spring hanger to stop the spring dislocating in the first place.
If you use the jubilee clip method then make sure the bottom securing plates are in good condition otherwise the weight of the axle can bend the plate and the spring will dislocate at the bottom. If it does this then you may come down with a bit of a bump!!

[disco-v8]

well i intend to have the lift so i can get abit more adventurous offroading


so basicaly when i get my new suspension, what stops the axle from falling down so far and letting the springs pop out, i understand that with the front ones the shock going through it will stop that happening but what about the rear... they cant just be placed and the weight of the car keeps them in place

[Tyke]

Anti roll bars will help stop the springs dislocating but most remove them for the extra articulation you can get from the longer shocks. The overall shocker length has a lot to do with whether the springs 'pop' or not.

Some kits quote 2" but the shocks are not extended enough to make use of the extra travel hence the springs don't 'pop'. One company . . . who will remain nameless on here for obvious reasons . . . are notorious at quoting lift figures, depending on the tyre size you want to fit. be carefull and be sure the shocks are extended to suit the springs. Also consider longer bump stops if you fit larger tyres.

Personally i'd say fit longer shocks/springs, rip off the roll bars and put rear cones on. That should get you going. I cant see the sense in fitting the longer kit and then purposely limitting the travel by stopping the springs from dislocating . . . waste of time and effort unless it's just for the posing and looks.

Don't forget biger tyres as well . . . . vehicle will look like a skateboard with standard wheels and a decent lift  

[Budgie]

The rear shockers will stop the axle moving too far but if you use this as the limiter on a regular basis then you will soon damage the shocks.

One other thing I forgot to mention was the brake flexies. You are better off getting lengthened ones when you do the lift.
If you don't and the axles go to full articulation then you stand a chance of snapping the brake lines!!

[Tyke]

Could always use limit straps to protect the shocks, just a bit of a hassle setting them up.

I've fitted well overlength brake flexi's as well. Should do me for a bit more lift if needed in the future  

Brakes are safety critical components and for the cost of a set of braided hoses and peace of mind it's well worth doing. Some get away with standard hoses but when I tried they were pretty much on full stretch and I didn't think the risk was worth it.