Topic: Drying out sound proofing (Read 1869 times)

Lewis Bernard · « **on:** November 23, 2006, 14:14:03 »

hi, i'm new to all this forum stuff, so hello!

I have a question -

Did my first wading session in the discovery the other day and am having issues drying out the sound proofing under the front carpets as it acts like the worlds biggest sponge. Anyone got any suggestions on drying it out / prevention of it in the future?

many thanks for you help

lewis

Skibum346 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 23, 2006, 14:49:33 »

My gut feel is it won't dry out in situ... get it out and over the line or something. Bit of a faff I suppose but I've owned a car where the carpets had been left to dry in place... it stank!

In terms of prevention... there are really three routes in:
1. Holes in the floor/bulkhead etc
2. Door seals
3. Heating vents

The solutions...

1. Get underneath in daylight and inspect every inch, welding as you go
2. Buy new ones and replace, making sure doors are correctly hung
3. Learn to drive in water... if it's coming in the vents your going too fast or too deep! :oops:

Good luck

Skibum

Lewis Bernard · « **Reply #2 on:** November 23, 2006, 15:16:23 »

yeah, half way to taking it out anyway!

water was just below top of wheels, most of it seemed to come through bottom of doors. i take it this is standard and almost impossible to stop?

i'll order some more seals, any advice on where to buy from cheaply? Disco 300tdi 1998

thanks for your help

Skibum346 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 23, 2006, 15:24:40 »

Check the Rimmer Bros website... I seem to remember them being cheaper than a stealership there.

My own belief is that the forward motion also helps to keep water from penetrating the seals, not sure of the physics of it though. Were you stalled at the time...?

Skibum

Lewis Bernard · « **Reply #4 on:** November 23, 2006, 16:43:27 »

constant moving, quite a long strech though, say couple of minutes. nothing came through the vents. Just removed the sound proofing, not as easy as it looks!

the only holes in the floor that i can see from the top is where the bottom of seat trim screws in, and the white plastic holes where the carpet retainers screw in. think it must be the door seals

Range Rover Blues · « **Reply #5 on:** November 23, 2006, 18:19:01 »

Take it out and leave it at home. It won't dry out where it is, it'll just rot the floor. Lift the back edge and prop a brick under there for now, eventualy you'll decide to remove it.

Lewis Bernard · « **Reply #6 on:** November 23, 2006, 18:25:48 »

yeah, i have removed it. small amounts of rust in drives side, non in passenger side. my estimation is it has been there for a while. going to purchase some new door seals and seal up a couple of small unused holes in the floor. hopefully this will help in the smaller of water crossings, if i ever come across them!

cheers for your help guys.

muddyjames · « **Reply #7 on:** November 23, 2006, 18:52:10 »

It sounds like a fun water crossing you went through!!

The bottom of my door seals aren't in a very good way by a long way. They are all cracked and crazed but I have never had water come inside the disco (except through the rusted boot floor before I had it replaced)

I have been through water that flowed over the bonnet and I couldnt go fast through the ford as it had huge holes either side. I must be very lucky then!! Dont forget the cd interchanger is under your drivers seat so dont let that get wet!!

Lewis Bernard · « **Reply #8 on:** November 23, 2006, 19:22:43 »

already removed it! which was handy. i wonder where all this water came from. it filled the footwells by half an inch. i must be unlucky! my doors are all hung correctly, i can only think it is the door seal. the water seemed to bubble up from under the door.

Tyke · « **Reply #9 on:** November 23, 2006, 23:38:07 »

Quote

Anyone got any suggestions on drying it out / prevention of it in the future?

Yep! . . . . rip it out and do without it . . . . keep out of the water . . . . . plug up all the holes.

A few tubes of silicon can work wonders, all the electical grommets in the disco footwells are suspects, give 'em a good dose of 'gobbo' and check your door seals as well.

if it's getin wet because of rust worm get the welder out.

Who really needs sound deadening anyway . . . . :twisted:

Get 'em dried though or they WILL start rot and then it's an endless chore trying to cure it :(

Check you boot floor as well, if it's got in the footwells then it's likley it's got under the rear carpets as well and the boot floor is a pig to replace

bensonsnuts · « **Reply #10 on:** November 23, 2006, 23:49:25 »

I have no carpets......just earmuffs :lol:

Last time I had water inside, it was up to the base of the seats before I was pulled out :oops:
It caused no probs apart from the rubber around the transmission tunnel .
Took absolutely weeks for that to dry........Thanks LR for fitting a f***ing great sponge inside the colander you call the Discovery :twisted:

Tyke · « **Reply #11 on:** November 24, 2006, 00:05:24 »

Quote

it was up to the base of the seats before I was pulled out

That would be a serious case of 'rising damp' then . . . . .

Bleedin' nightmare plugging up a disco . . . . . but hey!!! . . . if you cured all the leaks the truck would probably float away down the river :lol:

Lewis Bernard · « **Reply #12 on:** November 24, 2006, 00:15:06 »

yep out and drying.

there is a small patch of surface rust on the floor of the drivers footwell - best way of cleaning it up - ?

wirebrush/wool it down clean up, re spray with primer and a top coat? be under the carpet so doesnt matter what colour.

correct me if i am wrong!

i am obviously not one to mix with water!

I spent hours sorting out my 2x leaky sunroofs. it is a collinder! removed headlining and both sunroofs, cleaned and re-sealed up. hasnt leaked since even with the masses of rain we've been having in plymouth.

then after a stone put a hole in my windscreen auto galss, the jobsworths, put a new screen in and didnt seal the top in correctly, water just rained in through the top seal!

Tyke · « **Reply #13 on:** November 24, 2006, 00:31:19 »

You got it mate . . . . rub down to clean bare metal, prime with something like zinc phosphate and then give it a coat of decent underseal type stuff . . . doesn't matter if it's under the carpets.

Try to identify the source of the leaks though rather than doing ongoing repairs . . . .

Give the whole truck a good 'airing' by pulling up the carpets when you've been wading and you're getting on the right track.

High maintenance vehicles if you use them mate and that doesn't just mean changing the oils

Lewis Bernard · « **Reply #14 on:** November 24, 2006, 00:38:44 »

so i have noticed! cheers for the advice anyway guys! does anyone know if the screw holes (for the plastic trim to keep the carpets in on the sil) usually leak?

Tyke · « **Reply #15 on:** November 24, 2006, 01:03:20 »

Consider how much water a small screw hole will let in during a wade . . . . probably not very much if you get through at decent rate of knots . . . . . if you sit in it though . . . . .

Would be more inclined to be looking at the grommets where the wiring and heating ancilliaries enter the interior of the cab, (look around the bulkhead at the back of the engine for dislodged grommets etc), and also the conditions of the door seals.

Mine is far from water-tight I'm afraid but at least if water gets in, it usually drains away ok . . . . a few strategicaly drilled holes, which can be taped over when wading the deeps, makes sure of that

Lewis Bernard · « **Reply #16 on:** November 24, 2006, 01:20:41 »

i'll have a look tomorrow, it's an arse getting under the vehicle down here as i dont have a drive, almost got killed several times while working on it in the street on a major but narrow road! it's not an issue of water getting out, just trying to wring out that giant sponge of sound proofing. cut it out as it streches in one piece behind dashboard, centre console and seat trims were enough to remove! will make it easier to sry out if it happens again i should think. knowing my luck it will!

might wait till xmas when i'm home for holidays to seal up stuff underneath, then i can destroy my farthers garage as usual! going to dry out sort out rust and purchase new seals in the mean time.

thanks for the help, much appreciated!

Tyke · « **Reply #17 on:** November 24, 2006, 01:29:37 »

Stanley knives work wonders mate . . . . hope you get sorted

bensonsnuts · « **Reply #18 on:** November 24, 2006, 10:48:39 »

I've been thinking of using that rubberised paint they use to line truckbeds to paint my floor .
Obviously need to make sure you are not trapping rust underneath.....may be a problem in a disco :?

muddyjames · « **Reply #19 on:** November 24, 2006, 16:42:58 »

A top tip is to put plastic under the sound proofing so the sponge has no water to absorb. I did it with my rusty boot floor as that was ringing wet when I pulled it out the first time due to rusty floor/ playing in water.

Here r the pics of my floor. A mate completely replaced mine in 1 day so not that a pig of a job.

thumbs · « **Reply #20 on:** November 24, 2006, 19:24:16 »

just rip all the carpets out, dry the floor and paint it with a hard wearing paint!

through the carpets in the bin, they will never go back in properly anyway!

landroverkeith · « **Reply #21 on:** November 26, 2006, 16:07:31 »

:lol: i know how you feel with the flooded bit

i drowned my disco last year at whaddon and had muddy water halfway up the door on the inside :shock: infact there are pics in me gallery lol since then im banned from whaddon or linda would kill me lol

anyways it took weeks of drying off and the smell took even longer to get rid off

remember having all the doors open at work during the summer drying it out in the sun

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AuthorTopic: Drying out sound proofing (Read 1869 times)