90 RRC Steering query

[kjj0506]

I have a slight amount of lift and slightly over size tires ( 1 1/2" over stock OME springs ( and steering damper ) with self machined 1 1/4 billet spacers w/ 30" tall Dunlops) and have a few steering issues ....

Pump and hoses are leaky and noisey - would like to have stainless braided lines made to assure no leaks but am curious if anyone has info on the pump.... should I rebuild it ? replace ? aftermarket ? Retrofit?

Wander - it's pretty darty on rutted highways and seems to steer very loose on turn in. I have adjusted the box some and it improved a bit . It has all new rod ends and is aligned. Will camber adjustment bushings help or should I do arms ? Is the box shot or is it ONLY the camber?

I also have over extended my shocks and plan on lowering the top mounts in the rear but am curious if any one has pics of resized front towers. I want to shorten them about 3 inches or so...

Thanx in advance for any/all info

[clbarclay]

I suspect you have reduced your castor angle too much. 2" lift is the approximate limit (it can varry from one vehicle to the next) before correction is needed.

As for front turrets, a friend just cut the top of his turrets and welded on a pice of 5mm plate to the top of each with a hole in the middle at the desired hight.

[Range Rover Blues]

It's the castor and if you tighten the steeing system up too much the wandering will get worse.  I prefer castor corrected arms to bushes but if you can't afford the arms then bushes are better than nowt.

Be careful lowering the damper mounts, if yo have longer dampers then you needn't mess with the mouonts.  A plus 2" damper will be close to fully closed when the axle is on the bump stops and you won't get massive articulation on the front end anyway with a standard set-up.

[kjj0506]

So bushes will help for now and save up for the arms is what I'm hearing? What about those cranked arms? I have fabbing skills and was wonderring if there is any integrity in these bent arms.

As far as the shocks... I do a lot of highway and commuting as wel as exploring and playingg off road so a compliant , nicely articulate suspension wihh a good ride is what I'm after. I would rather have a good comprimise than a tippy rig that articulates like crazy. Any recommendations on longer shocks that will give me that?

Or should I consider a sway bar with disconnects?

[Range Rover Blues]

disconnects for the sway bars are a good idea if you can put it into practice, a lot of the atempts I've seen are almost dangerous, but watch this space.

I like Pro Comp dampers, they come in increments of 1" and they are made your side of the pond.

Fit the bushes then, you'll be glad you did.  Save up for fabrcated arms, the weight saving helps a little with the handling plus they restore the wheelbase, bending the original forged arm shortens it even more and I don't like the idea of heating and bending such a big forging on a safety critical item.

A good damper will help control the car on road but at low off-road speeds won't get in the way, a suple suspension, slightly uprated will help the on-road handling.  Remember the back end will need to be a fair bit stiffer because the self-level will no longer work.  You can take it off if you like.

Have you extended the brake flexis yet?

Oh and when you castor correct, watch out for the front prop/diff rumbling.

[kjj0506]

I wil check out the Pro  Comps.

I wondered about the wheelbase issue. I wil look around for some good arms as well as a bar and disconnects that hopefully don't rattle and are safe.

Are you saying I should have a stiffer shock for the back end? I seldom carry more that a little camping gear but may on occasion. Is the leveller inop now since the lift? Is it better to remove it in your opinion? I have seen some debates on that issue.

If it's a factor I have considered adding the rubberized upper and lower spring isolators to damp squeeks and such as well.

I am getting ready to do the brakes in whole. New rotors and extended stainless lines as well.

I have not addressed the prop shafts yet. They are quiet and seem ok but am open to recommendations as I know I am pushing their intended limits.

[Range Rover Blues]

The front prop UJ is a favourite to go shortly after a lift, at the 'box end as it will now be working harder.

Once you castor correct you create another problem in that UJs need to work in pairs at roughly matched angles so as not to creates pulsing in the driveshaft.  When you cator correct the front end you straighten out one UJ and the other ('box end) is working at a bigger angle becauseof the lift.  Some epople find the noise too much, it can depend on wear in other parts of the translission though.

New brakes, always a nice thing to have :D

I'd go Procomp all round, same performance so a nicer balance.  Fit a matched set of srpings too, typically 25% uprated front and 35% rear takes into account the self leveler and helps with body roll, unless you bolt on lots of kit you don't need much stiffer.   When new you'll think they are too stiff, work them in and you'll be happier.

All the level is doing now is stopping your axle hanging on the brake lines, it won't effect articlulation as the centre of the axle doesn't move that much, but it's weight you don't need.

Try to get the QT arms or similar, made in the UK though so I don't know what's on offer over there.  They are castor corrected, the chassi bush pin is also corrected and they are a tad longer to re-establish the wheel base which help with handling and stability.

Not many people bother with rubber spring mounts, one end is clamped down at the back and folks often clamp the front one too, then fit location cones to the other end and allow it to leave the seat on extreme axle articulation.  Yes they bang and scrape.

[Range Rover Blues]

Oh, if you don't disconnect the sway bars you may not get the springs out of their seats but the rear bar will now flip over at the ends unless you space the bushes away from the chassis or diconnect both ends ( I tried just one end but it kept hitting the floor that way).