Is galvanised right route?

[Malcy]

Hi
I need to replace the chassis on my 1991 90 since it seems to be predominantly an interesting composite of mud, cow sh13 and bitumen with the odd bit of metal left here and there - but not where the welds need to lock onto the chassis.
Several people have said go for galvanised whilst others have said not worth the extra. Do any of you guys have views and experience of this and if so what is "best" conclusion?
Thanks and best wishes

Malcy

[drmike]

I'm not sure what the price difference is but a chassis can last 20 plus years so I'd have thought it's not worth much of a price premium. And every hole you drill needs treating to maintian the galvanisation.

PITA is my vote!

Mike

[landrover598]

Definately worth it, Do it, and forget about it  :D   :D

[drmike]

But that's it you can't can you?

One good rock and it's breaks the surface or am I wrong?

Out of interest how much more do they cost?

Mike

[Xtremeteam]

Out of interest how much more do they cost?

Mike

its cheaper to get a chassis galvinised than painted black  

[Sooty]

There used to be a guy down the road from here that builds LR chassis to order, galved and painted so do you want me to take a walk down there and see if he is still going?
Maybe I can ask his advice.

[Malcy]

Thanks Sooty. That would be useful to know. I am based in Edinburgh so would have to do carriage anyway. I have found a guy who can do it and it may be politic to order through him - that was if something doesn't fit he cannot blame me - but getting some prices would be handy.
Best wishes

[Sooty]

Will do.
It may well be after New Year now as he will very likely be shut untill then.
As for delivery to Edinburgh I think a 90 chassis may be a little bit too much for MC express :D  :D
No doubt he can get it delivered as he ships them all over the world (if he is still there) but it all comes down to price.

[mark.yellow.series.3]

i had my chassis gavanised and it has a life of 35 years (so they say)

but if you think, an untreated chassis will give you about 8-10 years, if your gonna get rid in that time, then it might not be worth it.

food for thought.

[Xtremeteam]

Thanks Sooty. That would be useful to know. I am based in Edinburgh so would have to do carriage anyway. I have found a guy who can do it and it may be politic to order through him - that was if something doesn't fit he cannot blame me - but getting some prices would be handy.
Best wishes

have you tried GEMM4x4 in larbert or strathern engineering?
i know both can supply / fit galvy chassis

[extreme90]

if you got a mind like me then dont get a galvo chassis im glad i didnt when i built mine, i change me mind that often  
dan

[Muddy]

I would defo get a galv chassis if i rebuilt as its not that much more, its so much better on the inside and rear cross member AND even if it does scrape off some galv the metal there will not rust as the galv around the bare metal is more reactive so any salt etc will wheather that before the chassis metal so basicly your chassis will be safe. Plus it will make you motor a lot more attractive to any potential buyer if it is galvenised. You will never have to worry about replacing your x member or out riggers again and for the minimal extra cost i think you would have to be stupid not to go galv-you can always grind off weld to the outside and waxoil/galvafrol/paint over.... but inside it will always be well protected which is where a lot of the rot occurs, while your at it get your bulkhead done and any other possible bit of steel you can find, if anything 'mock up' any changes you plan on a bare chassis and then send i for galving and likewise with the bulkhead and seatbox ect ect... Its fit and forget.

Thebiggreenthing a nice looking motor you have their mate! but can i ask exactly what changes you have made to the chassis? maybe if we can see what/how you and potentialy anyone else has modified their chassis then we can design the 'ultimate' chassis to mock up before galvenising.

Cheers, Will.

btw merry xmas everyone :D

[mark.yellow.series.3]

as above, you can always grind off the galv for welding and your still better off then a bare chassis.

[Range Rover Blues]

I think you are confucing Galv with tin plate.  The whole point of galvanising (zinc plating) as that the zinc is a sacrificial anode to the steel, so a fairly small scratch is still protected by the electrolitic effect even if the passive layer is scrubbed away.  Yes it's sensible to protect cut and drilled edges with cold galvanising paint but it's not essential.  It's more important that you aloow the zinc plating to passivate naturally, in truth you need to buy the chassis then ignore it for a year untill it turns dark grey, at this point it has fully passivated and is better protected.

[Malcy]

Ah. Don't think I can wait a year. The MOT man is not likely to be impressed with the current composition of my chassis unfortunately. Presumably though, buying a new galvanised chassis is still going to be better than a non-galvanised one even if it gets put pretty immediately into use?

Malcy

[Range Rover Blues]

Obviously most folks have to do that, unless your rebuild is on saturday evening and takes a year anyway.  Just keep it clean until the novelty wears off and it should be fine, try to avoid leaving it stood out wet for the first couple of months ie wash it/dry it or use it.

[Malcy]

Thanks guys for all that careful and thoughtful input.
I will now be able to have a much more intelligent and knowledgeable discussion with the guy and hopefully get exactly what I need.
I clearly want to go for a galvanised chassis and perhaps even a new galvanised bulkhead too since foot wells are of similar composition to the chassis but with rather more air in the mixture  :lol:
Also need to start saving up my £££ but will hopefully be well worth it.
Best wishes

Malcy

[Steve ray]

Know a couple of lads that have rebuild Series II's onto galv chassis (LWB & SWB) .... they look really good and in my opinion well worth it.

I'm sure that the galv chassis will make the vehicle more saleable come the time to get rid of it or let you enjoy a long 'healthy' life with it at the MOT station!!

[Range Rover Blues]

That's another point, it will hold it's resale value and your MOT will be a lot less fraught, a nice shiny chassis will attract less attantion from the tester and give him the impression your whole car is looked after.

Just one downside, it'll be worth stealing too :(

[hingmy]

a mate in the north of england does rechassising to whatever spec you want.  I know he's got 3 in for it atm - want me to sound him out? Re bulkhead: i got a new td5 one prepped it and got it coated and it was still cheaper for not much more work. At the same time we did a 200tdi bulkhead, i can find out if thats going too. Oh and if you're bothered about it looking shiny and attractive to tea-leaves then paint the back x-member to make it less obvious. I can understand BGS's reservations about coating but for my money its still the best way to protect the inside of the main rails, which experience has taught me is where all the problems start.

[extreme90]

I would defo get a galv chassis if i rebuilt as its not that much more, its so much better on the inside and rear cross member AND even if it does scrape off some galv the metal there will not rust as the galv around the bare metal is more reactive so any salt etc will wheather that before the chassis metal so basicly your chassis will be safe. Plus it will make you motor a lot more attractive to any potential buyer if it is galvenised. You will never have to worry about replacing your x member or out riggers again and for the minimal extra cost i think you would have to be stupid not to go galv-you can always grind off weld to the outside and waxoil/galvafrol/paint over.... but inside it will always be well protected which is where a lot of the rot occurs, while your at it get your bulkhead done and any other possible bit of steel you can find, if anything 'mock up' any changes you plan on a bare chassis and then send i for galving and likewise with the bulkhead and seatbox ect ect... Its fit and forget.

Thebiggreenthing a nice looking motor you have their mate! but can i ask exactly what changes you have made to the chassis? maybe if we can see what/how you and potentialy anyone else has modified their chassis then we can design the 'ultimate' chassis to mock up before galvenising.

Cheers, Will.

btw merry xmas everyone :D

chears for that,
well when i 1st built it, i didnt like the rear winch crossmembers or trays, so i deciding on sticking the huskey ontop of the rear bed and weld a mount frame underneath the tub, but a year on and i was p***** off with the lack of room in the back, not being able freespool it cos the waffles were in the way, and also 35inch simex are damn heavy :shock:
so out with the crossmember in with the winch tray  :roll:
o another thing was origionaly a h/t i liked them at the time and had a full s/d cage  :roll:  changed me mind again and had to grind of all old mountings and weld new ones in
theres a few other minor things aswel
but for my next project i will have 1 design and not change it, so that will be galvo dont have to drill holes in chassis every 5 inch then to let the s*** out  
dan

[Dave B]

Gally chassis are also made of heavier gauge steel so they don't warp in the hot tank.  Got to be worth it just for that.

As to scrapes and scratches, well, paint also suffers of course.  So long as there is some zink remaining in the immediate area of the scratch, it wont rust significantly.  The only thing you have to think hard about, is if any welding (modifications) need doing after it's galvanised.  The surrounding area will have the zink burnt off, so you'll need to re-proof it in the usual way.  Plus the fumes are deadly.

That beast on the left has one of Arrow's (now Designa Chassis) earlier series on coils gally frame under it, worth every penny!  The extra stiffnes means the roof doenst leak anywhere near as much as it used to on the old series frame!...  Everything fitted just fine too.

Cheers.

Dave B.