Overall,

[SnakeLogic]

OK, so I've been lurking around this site for a while, trying to educate myself and on occasion asking a few questions.

My situation is this:  I live in Japan, and nobody I've personally met has ever used a Land Rover off road.  The off-road site (for play) that I have access to is basically a low island in the middle of a shallow river.  

My 1995 300 Tdi Disco is my daily driver.  I have automatic transmission, ABS, a/c.

I'm looking to: a) Get my differentials higher off the ground.  b) Add a snorkel to keep water (river crossings, usually not over the top of the 235/75-15 tyres) out of the engine.  c) Get some M/T tyres, but the size is dependent on how nutty I want to get with the lift.  d) I'd like to at least TRY doing as much of the work as possible by myself.  I can turn a wrench and have a Sawz-All, but have never welded anything.

My local dealer (independent LR garage) has a great mechanic, but it IS Japan, and his time is hardly free.  I have at long last tracked down a guy who will lend me a set of spring compressors, but fully equipped rental garages don't exist here.

I've come to the conclusion that most of the guys who post regularly in here really seem to know just what they're talking about.  So I ask for your advice.  If you were me, what would YOU do first?  Try to put in a DIY snorkel?  Get the lift?  What?

While we're at it, how much lift?  It seems that a 2" lift requires less mandatory additional upgrades that a 3", but maybe not?  A 3" lift would allow for more articulation with bigger tyres?  And just what kind of additional troubles am I looking at expecting if I start getting into 33" tyre range?  I've read the tyre fitting guide about 48 times, so I know that a spare won't fit on the stock carrier; I'm more concerned about wear on bearings, etc.

The sheer volume of what I DON'T know is staggering, and that's why I've thrown myself upon your mercy.  I only WISH I could drive to LR shows and such to buy you guys a pint and pick your brains, but given my location that's a bit difficult.  Any and all feedback is more than welcomed.  

Thanks.

[burgerman]

Send us a couple of tickets and il do  the work free for you    But im sure some one will come along shortly and point you in the right direction,     Also if there seems to be a lack of landy/4WD type garage outlets why not educate yourself enough (or employ some one) and get one up n running  :-k     Just food for thought

[thermidorthelobster]

Tyre tread pattern will definitely make the biggest difference.  If you're going to tie them in with a lift, then do so.  I wouldn't worry about wheel bearings etc;  unless you're going for monster tyres, you won't notice a difference.  Why not look at something like a 10% tyre size upgrade, to 235/75 or 265/85s?  You'll have to check how these would fit on a Disco I as I've only put them on a TD5.  They'll go on a TD5 with a 1.5" lift quite happily.

If you need a snorkel to cross the river, then you have to have one, but if you don't, then, well, don't worry too much about it!  The vehicle will wade quite happily to tyre depth.  If you DO fit a snorkel then make sure you waterproof everything else (ie, seal all the air intake hoses, extend the breathers, etc) otherwise it's a bit pointless.

There's no reason you shouldn't treat all the things you've described as a DIY job.  You'll need to get a half-decent set of tools, but what I carry around in a medium-sized toolbox is pretty much everything you need to do these jobs (apart from a jack & axle stands;  oh and you'll need a drill and jigsaw to fit most snorkels.)

[bezzabsa]

as a start i'd get the lift kit.. as if you need a snorkel then believe me youre in too deep ;)
(also -  you'd be surprised where a standard green oval can get)
2" lift  is more than enough to get started - and dont forget your wading plugs ;)
any reason why you want 15" tyres??
also how do you get on running a old (old in japanese terms) Discovery? thought after about 7 years that the MOT equivalent was really harsh ??

[SnakeLogic]

My bad!  Of course my rims are 16"!  Also, thanks for the feedback on the other things as well.  

How much is involved in changing shocks?  I understand that for the springs I'll need a spring compressor, but anything special I should know about changing shocks?  I've heard that with a 2" lift, keeping the stock length shocks is OK, but others say that for off-roading, longer shocks a re a pretty good idea.  Thoughts?  Changing brake lines seems a bit daunting for a first timer like me, especially as I lack specialist tools like a bleeder.  Disposing of the old oil is nearly impossible (well, assuming I want to NOT break the law!).

[gtomo2]

Hello, He is the way i look at things. he first thing i would go for is good tyres so you dont get stuck then underbody protetion eg diff sliders, steering guard tank guard. Then look at a lift if need be. just remember a lift will only lift the  disco your axles will be at the same hight. i have a 1" lift on mine with heavy duty springs and i didnt need a spring conpressor to do it just lift it on the chassic and the wheel will drop low enough for the spring to slid out easy and the new one to slid in. you will need new bolts for the front turret mount as these just snap off :roll: . As for a diy snorkel very easy to make just find some old 2.5 inch drain pipe and some flexi hose and route it though the inner wing with a mushroom top. but if you lift the disco up it will lift the airintake up as well so you may not need one. i have been through water half way up my doors in my disco with no snorkel on. just remember to raise the axle and gearbox etc breathers and you should be ok.

[Budgie]

If I were you I would do the suspension lift first, then the tyres and the snorkle last.
The reason for doing the suspension first is, you don't want to get the tyres and find they are too large for the lift kit!  
If you do the lift then you know haow much room you have for new tyres.

+2" lift should be fine and should save you having problems with the steering. You need the springs and shocks for the kit to work, standard length shocks will restrict the suspension travel so they need to be +2" as well.
There is nothing special about doing the job yourself, but if you do then get a new pair of shocker turret securing rings as the studs on these are known to snap when you undo them.
Simply undo the front shocker at the axle end, undo the four nuts on the shocker turret and pull the turret and shocker out in one piece. Then you can release the shocker from the turret and put the new one on.

If you release the anti roll bars first, then you should be able to swap the springs without spring compressors, just make sure that the vehicle is secure with axle stands under the chassis!

If you find that the shockers are hard to get off the either use pipe grips to stop the shock from turning or cut the fitting off (providing that you're not using the shocker again!  

If you go for 33" tyres then you're looking at either a +3" lift and wheelarch flares or a +2" lift, body lift and wheelarch flares. If you start getting into a +3" lift then you're going to have problems with steering caster angle and the overall gearing is likely to to be effected in such a way that you'll be in one gear lower around town than you are now and it may struggle to get up hills that it used to have no problems with.

This is mine with 33x12.5R15 tyres and a +2" lift:


........and the same tyres with a +3" lift:


Don't forget that going for larger dia tyres will make your speedo read incorrectly as well!!

The wheelbearings will be fine with larger tyres, as long as they are maintained correctly. Regular checks on the pre-load and plenty of grease and there shouldn't be any problems. Mine have run fine with 33" tyres and wheel spacers for nearly 4 years now.