I have a game for you.....

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Right I'm going to tell you what I'm going to do.... and you guys can tell me how many things I have got wrong!  :lol:

I have a 1994 Range Rover 3.9 V8 with air suspension  ABS and traction control. I have to change the rear brake pads and disks. I have opted to go for EBC smooth disks with EBC green stuff 6000 series.

I'm going take the calipers off... crimping the rubber hose to stop any brake fluid coming out (will that be ok or will it damage the pipe?) with the caliper removed, using an air compressor, I will gently pop out the pistons, clean them all up replace the seals if they look ropey and the pistons. Then put it back together.

change the disk and refit the caliper, refit the brake pipe and then bleed the breaks in the normal way by undoing the bleed nipple, getting my lovely wife to press the pedal all the way to the floor, close the nipple, and then releasing the brake pedal, repeating this until clear of air bubbles and making sure the reservoir does not become to low.

How does that sound?

Tar

[way2deep]

not 100% certain but i think with abs you can get away with just turning ignition on and not have to foot pump bleed it ..use a proper brake pipe clamp and that's fine ...mole grips can sometimes damage pipes cos of they're flat edges

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Thanks waytodeep, I was reading that last night sounds easy to bleed, just turn the key and the pump does it for you, also helpfull for me as I want to flush out as much of the old brake fluid as possible.

 I have a plasitc hose clamp which I hope will do the job of crimping the pipe with no damage.

Thanks mate!

[Range Rover Blues]

Good luck with the seals, I hate doing them and they never stay fixed.  I end up fitting new callipers as its' not worth my time to faff around.

[Skibum346]

A word of caution on bleeding ABS...

Our RRC had work carried out by a garage who did not use the full bleeding process that alsoi bleeds the ABS block in the engine bay. As aresult we had a VERY distinct pull to one sideat even moderate speed let alone motorway speeds.

After letting them try twice to eradicate the problem I invested in the big book and did it myself. Worked a treat!

Now all these cowboys had done was replace a disk and renew the pads which sounds much like your own plans. So despite the theories you may still need to bleed the ABS block using the fullk process. If you need it... I can let you have it.

Good luck!

Skibum

[Jonny Boaterboy]

You are so right Mr blues  :x ! I have spent all morning trying to do them, I brought some brit part replacement pistons and seals and the seals were crap ended up using the originals!

Got some nice ebc groved a dotted discs for the price of smooth ones which was nice.

haven't forgotten about the air surspsion info Mr blues will get round to it soon!

[Jonny Boaterboy]

Thanks Skibum, I did intend to bleed the whole system following the procedure in the big book (well CD!)

I have completely stripped down the calipers.... will the normal bleed proses fill it full of brake fluid again or do you have to pre fill it before reconnecting it the the system?

Thanks

Jonny

[Range Rover Blues]

You might find that air keeps coming out for a couple of days, it get trapped around the seal especially on a new set.  If it does just tell yourself it isn't just you and yes, you did it right the first time :roll:

The little steel retainnrs are the worst part, they are too fragile for the force you need to fit them, I've tried alsorts but even if you get them in they come out again as soon as the pads wear down a bit.

EBC disks Eh? nice :D   Me too, though I had to pay the asking for them :roll:

It's the front ones that make the difference though.