REAR SUSPENSION BUSHES

[peasey]

Im going to be tackling this little job tomorrow is there anything i should know before i go at it hammer and tongs?is it as easy as it looks in the haynes book of lies? :)

[Tinks]

Getting the old bushes out is probably normally the biggest pain.  Are you poly bushing it??

[Disco_Stu]

Big job peasey, make no mistake.

Sell your nearest and dearest to get access to a decent press. I did the 2 top link bushes and trailing arm bushes recently - they took about 10 - 12 ton of pressure before they let go.

I had another two trailing arms which I thought I'd do at the same time off a 1990 truck - had them to almost 20 ton and no joy. Couldn't stop them from twisting and moving all over the place. Ended up burning them out.

It's a bit frowned upon but if you've got a gentle touch with oxy/acet then its quick and easy to do them that way. Be very aware you can warp and weaken your components.

Best of British m8,

Stu.

[Jimbo]

Check out my topic over in the Defender section - 'bushed bushes' I think it's called, loads of good advice on how to get OEM bushes out without resorting to the gas axe or a 10T press !

Basically, drill out the middle rubber, push the centre metal part out, and then use a hacksaw (or air-saw if you have air power  :twisted: ) and cut through the outer metal sleeve, then use a hammer and chisel to tap the outer sleeve out...........took me about an hour to do the first rear trailing arm, and 30 mins to do the second one. If you fit OEM bushes, be prepared for a big push - if you go Poly's, then they'll just slide in  :P

Jim

[clbarclay]

I used a press to remove mine (origional 20 year old bushs) and it just pushed the middle rubber/metal out leaving the outer tube, which was easily delt with by a hacksaw/hammer. I didn't realy need a press for this, with the right sided tube and block (which I needed anyway) a vice would have done just as well.

If you have anything like a press, vice or bush wacker then new OE bushes should just slide in. It does help if you have years of old bearing shells and tube offcuts to jig it all up though.

[peasey]

<edit> hell boys this is the hardest job i have ever started and i have to admit im struggling a bit here!!!!even with jimbos very helpful  post, bloody bolts are so tight and rusted i have tried penatration oil heating em up the lot do you think they will shift will they [mcuk]!!!!im going to have one more go this morning with a nut spliter that should do the job lol  :x  :twisted:  :x  :twisted:  :x  :twisted:

[Jimbo]

<edit> hell boys this is the hardest job i have ever started and i have to admit im struggling a bit here!!!!even with jimbos very helpful  post, bloody bolts are so tight and rusted i have tried penatration oil heating em up the lot do you think they will shift will they mcuk!!!!im going to have one more go this morning with a nut spliter that should do the job lol  :x  :twisted:  :x  :twisted:  :x  :twisted:

Oooooo, I wouldn't - you seen the date today !!!!!!!!

I sprayed liberal quantities of WD all over the nuts & bolts that I wanted to remove - over several days prior to attempting the job !

[simon15]

the only way i got them off of dads disco was with a blow torch and melting the nylon lock...

heat it right up and it loosens it a turn or two so heat it up again etc etc etc etc.........

[hobbit]

If you can get your hands on a spare set of 2nd hand rear arms, get them pressed out first, then you only have to worry about the bolts and nuts, as you have found out, they are awkward to say the least to get at, pre soaking in penetrating fluid, 3/4 drive (6 six sided) socket and a long bar will normally crack most nuts off, but better to get some height under the motor to help with the  long bar to crack them

When replacing Always better to fit new nuts and bolts

As a last resort you could always cut the arms off and use the replacements

Also handy having a spare arm made up in case of probs later

[peasey]

right i have had enough im going to take the soaking approach so im off down halfrauds to get more plus gas im going to soak every thing for a week so watch this space because im going to need some more advice im sure!!oh and anyone got any spare uncut knuckles i can have? :lol:  :lol:

[clbarclay]

When it comes to heating nuts to undo them blow tourches are not worth bothering with IMHO, they just don't get hot enough, quick enough. I've tried it before when it was the only heat source to hand and it didn't have any significant effect for the amount of gas and time it burnt.

To do the job properly use an oxy-acetaline gas axe and heat the part untill starts turning cherry red. The downside is it messes up heat tempered parts, but most of the time this isn't a problem. If you can justify an oxy-acetaline setup (or know someone handy with one) then they are very useful while tools to have.


If your replacing the bolts then cutting along the length of the thread with a grinder, cutting the nut in half, is a very useful technic.

[Range Rover Blues]

Rather thank Oxy gear my mate uses TIG to heat nuts up, faster, cleaner and no over-spill of the heat.  If you have access to a MIG it's not as neat but sure heats nuts up fast.

[peasey]

well lads im back again only to tell you that i have done the job!!!to say im pleased would be a massive understatment and the difference it makes when cornering is unreal.im well pleased, and worth every bit of my sore and aching body and bloody fingers. thanks to all of you that replyed to my first post i couldnt of done it without ya cheers!! p.s.any one know how to put new front shocks in?

[Range Rover Blues]

Yes.

Grip the body of the old shocker with mole grips or a Stilson and snap the nut off.

Or chisel it off

Or if it's just a dream where your married to Daryl Hanah and live in Eden, you can remove them with a spanner.

Undo the 4/3/2 bolts securing the shock tower to the chassis by the same method, throw the assembled shock tower/shocker at the cat in a fit of temper.

Jump up and down on the same, holding any fingers that are currently throbbing.


Remove shock from shock tower and retain the later, or replace shock tower if rusty/cash is burning a hole in you pocket/you just wanted a set of tubular ones anyway and fit your new shock to it.

Replace the shock tower retaining ring between the spring and the chassis, use a jack and NEVER leave your fingers in there.  You will of course have bought 2 new ones in anticipation that the OEM ones are still made of cheese and WILL snap.  Paddock's do a HD one for peanuts with a stronger metric thread.

Refit the shock tower/shocker to the chassis, then to the axle.

Easy job, honest