Rods, Links, and Props!

[BigSi]

Hoping to change the rear prop, track rod and drag link this weekend. Do I need a special extractor to disconnect the ball joints (LRT-57-018)?

Any hints and tips would be most appreciated! :-k  :-k  :-k  :-k

[extreme90]

2lb lump hammer works for me
if it wont come off that way and you dont have a ball join splitter, apply some pressure on the tube close to the trackrod end with a jack, then hit the trackrod end it should pop of then
dan

[Devon-Rover]

Any light commercial ball joint extractor will do the job. Or just shock the joint by belting the shoulder they sit in with a large hammer. they should then pop off!

 :D

[L90OOK]

Or just shock the joint by belting the shoulder they sit in with a large hammer. they should then pop off!

 :D

That's the best way...give the shoulders a good couple of taps & ball joints will pop out.  

[extreme90]

Or just shock the joint by belting the shoulder they sit in with a large hammer. they should then pop off!

 :D

That's the best way...give the shoulders a good couple of taps & ball joints will pop out.  

i wish mine were that easy  :roll:

[BigSi]

So the best tool to use is an adjustable impact applicator (big hammer)!!!  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

[tonycougar]

No, I find a Precision Percussion Adjuster works better. :lol:

[L90OOK]

Or just shock the joint by belting the shoulder they sit in with a large hammer. they should then pop off!

 :D

That's the best way...give the shoulders a good couple of taps & ball joints will pop out.  

i wish mine were that easy  :roll:

Dan...you need a bigger hammer!  :lol:  :twisted:

[extreme90]

Or just shock the joint by belting the shoulder they sit in with a large hammer. they should then pop off!

 :D

That's the best way...give the shoulders a good couple of taps & ball joints will pop out.  

i wish mine were that easy  :roll:

Dan...you need a bigger hammer!  :lol:  :twisted:

winch worked a treat       :P
dan

[clbarclay]

Its best to apply some leverage whilst whacking the side of the taper, ball joint spliters can work but at home the most common combination is a long leaver between axle and tie rod etc. and bear up/down on it. Another alternative is to push up on the rod end with a jack.

As for hammers, a hefty 14lbs sledge is very useful but under a car their isn't much space to swing one which is why we have 10lbs sledges with shortened handles so you can swing em single handed.

[extreme90]

and when that fails  :roll:
out with the snatch block and winch  
 :P
dan

[Devon-Rover]

Dan might i have to come up with my 'hammer' and demo how to do it?

I did have one that refeused untill i spent 5 mins belting it with a 7Ib lump hammer.

[L90OOK]

Dan might i have to come up with my 'hammer' and demo how to do it?

 :(biglaugh):   :whothedaddy:

[GREENI]

Make sure it's a metric hammer.......

[clbarclay]

So thats why metric threads get damaged when hit with an imperial hammer :idea:

[BigSi]

:lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

[Devon-Rover]

I'm innocent i tell ya

 :oops:  


I'm off to write 100 lines of....

I must not post whilst under the influence...

[Range Rover Blues]

No, I find a Precision Percussion Adjuster works better. :lol:

Intermittant gravity press for me :)

[BigSi]

Well today was kind of successful. Changed the rear prop after remembering that the hand brake was also on the prop! Removed the axle end then rotated the prop to remove the bolts on the transfer end. Went to test drive it afterwards, and noticed that the gears felt a little tight, seemed to sort its self out after a short run. Could I of messed something up by rotating the prop?

Went to change the drag link, but noticed that the ends were different (could be me missing something?), anybody have any ideas? Do I unscrew the old one?  :oops:  :oops:  :oops:  :oops:

My new part.



The existing part still on the vehicle.

[Wolfie]

My new part.

Looks like an aftermarket HD rod to me. Most of these use a locknut rather than the LR clamp arrangement, like has been used on the track rod end.

In fact, it looks as if the locknut is on the taper of the track rod end, a sensible place for it to be put for safe keeping.

[BigSi]

Well done…I never even spotted that locknut on the end!!! So if I removed the existing rod would there be a threaded end for me to screw the new HD rod onto?  :-k  :-k  :-k  :-k

[andycwb]

2lb lump hammer works for me

LOL.  I read the first post and thought "2lb lump hammer".  Then saw your reply below it.

In my case, I figured that since I'd got a completely new heavy duty drag link and track rod, it didn't matter if I damaged the existing ones getting them out, so the 2lb lump hammer seemed a good solution.

Then I read the rest of the thread, and realised I made exactly the same mistake as you... packed everything away, came back into the house ready to bitch at Paddocks in the morning, and then saw the locknut, and started inventing new combinations of swearwords.

If it's the same as the kit I put on the Dakar, you unscrew the bit that connects to the joint on the steering box drop arm, and screw that into the new one.  Fit everything in place, tighten up the locknuts remembering that one end will be a left hand thread, and with a bit of luck your tracking will still be right!  I did mine with the wheels still on the ground to make sure nothing moved - easy on the Dakar since I only actually need the jack to lift the wheels off the ground - I can work under it easily without a jack!

[BigSi]

Well its certainly been a productive day. Removed the steering damper (had to cut the end off to remove it), removed the drop arm (a few shakes and off it came!), and removed the drag link bar.

Only problem is that I can’t remove the swan arm (is that right?), from the end of the drag link bar. Have it soaking in oil for the night, so hopefully by the morning it will feel a little freer (is that a word?).

Also decided that a canvas back would be easier and look better than a ifor Williams back. Can’t decide if I should have one made, or buy one and have it altered to accommodate the roll cage?

Has anybody got any pic of how the canvas top secures to the truck cab?

[extreme90]

Well its certainly been a productive day. Removed the steering damper (had to cut the end off to remove it), removed the drop arm (a few shakes and off it came!), and removed the drag link bar.

Only problem is that I can’t remove the swan arm (is that right?), from the end of the drag link bar. Have it soaking in oil for the night, so hopefully by the morning it will feel a little freer (is that a word?).

Also decided that a canvas back would be easier and look better than a ifor Williams back. Can’t decide if I should have one made, or buy one and have it altered to accommodate the roll cage?

Has anybody got any pic of how the canvas top secures to the truck cab?

this is how i remove the stubborn bit that drop arm goes onto and also the damper ( you call it the swan arm ? )

leave the trackrod end on the pass swivel housing so as the draglink cannot move

then stick a bar through the swan arm and undo

dan

[BigSi]

This is the part.



I’ve basically removed the drag arm and the drag link from the vehicle. Have to unscrew both parts to fit the new drag link.

[extreme90]

yep, fit the track rod end back on and undo as ive previously said  

dan

[Range Rover Blues]

Lordy, I fouond that a swine when I did mine, I've got the Defender one on Blue now.

Isn't it a LH thread?  I had to heat it up and hit it a lot too.

[extreme90]

the track rod end is a left hooker, the drop arm bit is r/h thread

[BigSi]

Yet another productive day! Got everything fitted and cleaned up in time for tea!

yep, fit the track rod end back on and undo as ive previously said  

dan

Great tip! My Dad gave me a hand to remove the drag arm, wouldn’t  listen to me about fitting it back on to the vehicle! Instead he employed an intricate system of mole grips, monkey wrenches, and vices…needless to say, nothing moved! A few sharp turns with a large bar (as per ‘TheBlueySilverThing’s’ method), and turn she did!!!

Just leave me to get everything checked in the Tyre place and re-centre the steering wheel tomorrow (new bar was slightly longer that the original, so steering wheel was slightly off).  8)  8)  8)

[extreme90]

Yet another productive day! Got everything fitted and cleaned up in time for tea!

yep, fit the track rod end back on and undo as ive previously said  

dan

Great tip! My Dad gave me a hand to remove the drag arm, wouldn’t  listen to me about fitting it back on to the vehicle! Instead he employed an intricate system of mole grips, monkey wrenches, and vices…needless to say, nothing moved! A few sharp turns with a large bar (as per ‘TheBlueySilverThing’s’ method), and turn she did!!!

Just leave me to get everything checked in the Tyre place and re-centre the steering wheel tomorrow (new bar was slightly longer that the original, so steering wheel was slightly off).  8)  8)  8)

been there, done that, got me hair off followed by alot of french words  :P  :P
thats the best way IMO
you can center the steering by undoing the top uj on the colum in the engine bay, sliding it down and then slide it back up in to correct position
dan