AuthorTopic: range rover transfer box  (Read 2233 times)

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Offline fezzy192

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« on: November 08, 2007, 18:17:45 »
i think the viscous coupling is seized in the tranfer box
i have jacked up the back axle and put in neutrul and tried to turn the wheels and nothing wont move
whats my options

change i change the transfer box for a manual difflock ???

Offline Bowie

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« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2007, 21:01:02 »
Which neutral? The transfer box in neutral or the gearbox...... someone made me think mine was shafted when I couldn't turn the wheel, but then reading Ashcroft Transmissions site it was clear it was the transfer box that should be in neutral, and not the gearbox....

Lookie here: Ashcroft Viscous Coupling

If it is screwed, a new viscous coupling is £270 from Ashcroft, which is probably the medium-cost way to go about it, or a new transfer box is ££££s... or a second-hand unknown one will be next to nothing :)

HTH,

Bowie.
1980 SIII Lightweight 2.25 Petrol - completely standard.
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Offline Dr Strangeglove

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« Reply #2 on: November 09, 2007, 08:29:42 »
I bought my Rangie for 560 quid.  The viscous coupling had seized when I bought it.  It as advisable to get it sorted pretty quick as it can damage other components.  However:-  as I did not use it for my daily drive I just kept on looking at ebay.  You should be able to get one on a "buy it now" for between 75 -125 quid.  You may also be able to get one for less than that but it may have the transfer box or gear and transfer box still on it (so you will usually have to collect!).

I got a transfer box c/w coupling for 19 quid (but I think I was lucky).

I was going to change the complete lump but in the end just took the coupling off as I was working on my own on the drive.  It was a bit fiddly.  I had to take the prop shaft off (you can get to all the nuts on the front of the shaft but not on the coupling end as you cant turn it (as it is seized!)) and also the gear box cross member came off (unbolted and just hammered out of the way rather than OFF).  Their was a bit of swearing going on but only me to hear it.  Also remember some of the screws will require imperial spanners etc - I think I used an imperial ring spanner at one point - but luckily had a few hanging around.

But I did it and I ain't no mechanic.  Oh – and as such I can’t say that my way is the right way!!

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Offline gnasha

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« Reply #3 on: November 09, 2007, 10:16:20 »
if back axel is off ground and u turn 1 wheel should the othe wheel not just turn oppersit way and get no movement to gearbox


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Offline ChrisV8

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« Reply #4 on: November 09, 2007, 10:21:56 »
You can change just the viscous as others have said. It's not difficulyt just fiddly as you have to take off one of the gearbox mounts, it's bolted to the Viscous unit housing. Getting the propshaft off can be a pain but using a Difflock propshaft socket makes it easier.

Alternatively yes you can put a manual locking transfer box on but you will need all the linkages for that and time to mess about putting them in.

You need to check if it's seized by looking at the Ashcroft link, it mainly works through the front axle so thats the one to lift and try to turn. Get it sorted though, daughter drove hers for too long and took out, propshaft joint, and cv in the front axle, it turned the shaft in the cv and I cannot get it apart it has welded itself together. Shaft cost about £300.00 !!!!! I also have just bought a Rangie with goosed viscous that has taken out the chain drive so it is undrivable.
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Offline fezzy192

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« Reply #5 on: November 09, 2007, 15:53:07 »
i have removed the front propshaft and all the clunking has stopped i am now looking for another transfer box

Offline ChrisV8

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« Reply #6 on: November 09, 2007, 15:59:57 »
If it was clunking have a look at the prop joints as they may be worn now, daughters had worn away one of the cups almost completely and it was banging about somewhat she was very lucky it didn't come apart.

Also i would advise you to check the cv joints as they take some hammering if the viscous seizes.

Also be careful with right pedal as all the power is now going to one axle and the half shafts might not like it too much !
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Offline Xtremeteam

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« Reply #7 on: November 09, 2007, 18:49:08 »
Quote from: "ChrisV8"
You can change just the viscous as others have said. It's not difficulyt just fiddly as you have to take off one of the gearbox mounts, it's bolted to the Viscous unit housing. Getting the propshaft off can be a pain but using a Difflock propshaft socket makes it easier.

Alternatively yes you can put a manual locking transfer box on but you will need all the linkages for that and time to mess about putting them in.

You need to check if it's seized by looking at the Ashcroft link, it mainly works through the front axle so thats the one to lift and try to turn. Get it sorted though, daughter drove hers for too long and took out, propshaft joint, and cv in the front axle, it turned the shaft in the cv and I cannot get it apart it has welded itself together. Shaft cost about £300.00 !!!!! I also have just bought a Rangie with goosed viscous that has taken out the chain drive so it is undrivable.


if you paid £300 for a shaft & cv joint you were robbed


jack up one front wheel & using a bar with a socket on a wheel nut & try turning the wheel, the wheel should turn slowly but it will turn, otherwise if it dont turn its gimped
Mike
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Offline ChrisV8

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« Reply #8 on: November 10, 2007, 11:30:19 »
aaah didn't say that was what I paid, but if you look on Paddocks or Craddocks that what the shafts are new !

What I did was bought another axle and robbed the bits out of it, total cost £40.00. That's the best bit of LR ownership you can always find the parts you need secondhand.
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Offline Bowie

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« Reply #9 on: November 10, 2007, 13:42:02 »
Quote from: "Xtremeteam"
jack up one front wheel & using a bar with a socket on a wheel nut & try turning the wheel, the wheel should turn slowly but it will turn, otherwise if it dont turn its gimped


Yes, but don't forget to put the transfer box in neutral!
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Offline fezzy192

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« Reply #10 on: November 10, 2007, 14:18:24 »
i tried  putting bar on front wheels when front wheel was in air and transfer box was in neutral and it was movingoff the jack beacuse of back wheels was moving

Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #11 on: November 10, 2007, 14:37:39 »
That's a big old bar then :shock:

As a rule, you should just about be able to turn the wheel whilst tightening up the wheelnuts, but the wheel will only spin very slowly.

As for neutral, it doesn't matter which neutral you use, as long as it's wroking.  If you're unsure use both.  If you apply the handbrake then you must check the viscous by jacking up the front.
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Offline Bowie

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Re: tansfer box
« Reply #12 on: November 10, 2007, 17:42:50 »
Quote from: "fezzy192"
i tried  putting bar on front wheels when front wheel was in air and transfer box was in neutral and it was movingoff the jack beacuse of back wheels was moving


Well...... that sounds pretty seized :P

With a 2 foot breaker bar you should be able to turn it.... GL finding new one!
1980 SIII Lightweight 2.25 Petrol - completely standard.
1991 Range Rover Vogue SE 3.9 V8 - now on LPG (sorted!), 2" lift, mud tyres, and more to come...

Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #13 on: November 11, 2007, 22:25:20 »
I've a spare box that I know is good, but it won't be cheap.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
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Offline ChrisV8

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« Reply #14 on: November 12, 2007, 15:31:15 »
:lol: I won't tell you what I paid for two the other week then !! Downside one does appear to be seized, but still a good deal !
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Offline Range Rover Blues

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« Reply #15 on: November 13, 2007, 13:49:22 »
That's the rpblem, when you want one they are expensive.  I don't know how high demand is now but a year or so ago they were worth £150 in any condition to reconditioners.
Blue,  1988  Range Rover 3.5 EFi with plenty of toys bolted on
Chuggaboom, 1995 Range Rover Classic
1995 Range Rover Classic Vogue LSE with 5 big sticks of Blackpool rock under the bonnet.

 






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