Gearbox/Clutch Replacement Tips 4 bits needed.

[carbore]

Hello,

I now have gearbox,engine hoist and car all in the same place, so its time to get ready for D-Day where I take out my knacked gearbox and put in the new one.

Its coming out via the passenger door on the engine hoist so im fine re how to do that, but are there any bits to replace on the way?

Im thinking

Clutch plate
Clutch cover
Clutch Bearing
Gearbox mounts/rubbers
Drive shaft bolts + threadlock
Transmission brake shoes

Also the spedo is "bouncy" is it likely that a new drive wheel etc will cure this and is it worth doing while the box is out.

Anything else recomended, its for a restoration/refurb and im planing on keeping the verhicle for a long time so

Thanks (and thanks from my local parts supplier im sure!)

[Devon-Rover]

Spigot bearing bush (inside the flywheel) Is it ok and not partially broken up?
Engine rear output oil seal fine?
All the clutch hydraulics ok?
Clutch fork ok not showing excess wear on the pivots?

To get it out you might need to drop a section of the exhaust out of the way, so are the bolts ok to move? not going to fall off when you touch it?

Just a few things to be thinking of when your in there.

[carbore]

Thanks, nice to know you are still talking to us now you are famous (saw you in LRO this month)

with he exception of the plate/cover is most of this few quid bits thats worth buying anyway (the fork for example). I am very lucky that I have an idependant parts specialst about 1 mile form home (and a car to go there in), but I have a feeling it will drag on to when they are closed!

[andyb]

Also the spedo is "bouncy" is it likely that a new drive wheel etc will cure this and is it worth doing while the box is out.

Replace the worm gear on the transfer box output shaft. It should be a very tight fit and the new one will need hammering (or drifting) into place.

I assume that you are removing the complete seat base; also worth removing the door stay from the passenger door so that it folds back flat against the wing. This will make access a lot easier.

HTH

[Les Henson]

A bouncy speedo is quite often associated with play in the bearing behind the handbrake drum. If there is play, then the shims need adjusting. The drive for the speedo is clamped when the rear housing is tightened and if it's loose - the speedo will jump. If you remove the door stay the edge of the door closest to the wing will dig in the door pillar and damage it - been there, done that more than once  :(


Les.

[andyb]

A bouncy speedo is quite often associated with play in the bearing behind the handbrake drum.

I have to say that replacing the big worm gear was the only thing that fixed the speedo in my Series. YMMV :)

As for door stay....I'm pretty sure it worked for me on a 90, prehaps Series doors hinge differently.....prehaps remove it completely :)