Wheel bearing adjustment...how do you do it?

[Iain C]

I'd started another thread on here but I was not too sure what the problem was at the time.  Looks like the old girls needs discs, pads and bearings all round.

Question is, Haynes suggests using a DTI to check the hub bearing endfloat, and I don't have one.  Some people are saying that too loose is kinda OK, to tight and they will be shot in literally a couple of miles.  As it's a 4WD vehicle it's almost impossible to do it by "feel", does anyone have any good tips here on how to get it right?

Thanks in advance!

[Jake]

Make sure when you put in new bearings you fit the new bearing race's
If you haven't got a drift (punch) to remove the old ones, buy one (they arn't expensive)
Pack the new bearings with the correct grease (Haynes will tell which, I cant remember right now)
Do up the hub nut tight, then knock it back quarter turn then lock it with the lock nut.
Rotate the hub, it should feel free but not spin wildly
Make sure you use lock tight on all the bolts too
 8)

[Iain C]

Nice one, thanks Jake!

[Disco-andy]

iv welded a wheel nut to the end of my box spanner for doing the hub nuts, then i do it up to the stage 1/2 in the haynes.  and use loads  and loads of grease.  I fine a round lump of ali i have works a treat as a drift for getting out the old rase's, and iv maschined down an old race just a little to help nock in the new ones.
I hope that helps, i had to do one Saturday in a hail storm, there normally fine to do when not collapsed.

[chris9119]

Always check the end float with the wheel on, it gives you more of a feel if the bearings are to tight/loose.

You don't need "loads of grease" you need the correct amount applied correctly....., i.e. make sure it goes all the way through all the races....

Removing the old bearing shells....., if you have an old one, place a cut in it with a grinder (stops it getting stuck)...., can also be used to set the new ones.

Don't forget, fit new seals aswell

[Les Henson]

How to replace a wheel bearing-

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8009


Les.

[Range Rover Blues]

Using a DTI is the most accurate way, except that is the inner seal is new then the lip is so stiff you can't feel any endfloat :roll:

SO, assmble the 2 locknuts and washer, finger tight at least then lever against the washer ans the hub, you should be able to push the hub away from the hubnuts and open a gap between the inner nut and the outer bearing.  Stick a feeler guage in that gap (the correct size of course) to check if you've set it right.

Excessively loose bearings are not good, but as long as there is some play they are not too tight.

You'll also find that tolerances were tightened up on later cars, though the bearings are the same part.

Slackening off between 60 and 90 degrees often suffices, once you've done a few you'll get the feel but be careful, if your nuts are loose on the thread then any clearence that comes form backing the 1st but off 90 degrees is lost when you tighten the locknut against it, so you have to check it once the nuts are tight.

The probelem I find with having the bearings adjusted right up is that the pads never get pushed clear of the disks like they would if the hub was a bit looser, so they squeak.

[Iain C]

Thanks for the tips all.  I reckon I've done it about right by feel, we'll see when it's on the road and the new discs and pads have bedded in a bit.

However, I took the n/s/f hub off to put the new disc on, and I can't for the life of me get the 2 shims on behind the circlip on the end of the driveshaft.

I can't work out why...I've not changed that wheel bearing (although I did put a new hub seal on) and the hub is definitely fully home, and I've put a bolt in the end of the shaft and it won't come out any more.  

So the circlip is there on it's own, will this be OK?

[Range Rover Blues]

Not really in the long term, no. How thick were the shims?

These control the endfloat of the CV in it's bearing and via that the float of the whole halfshaft.  If you havn't done anything with the bearings then I'd guess it's becuase the new outer seal (inside face of the hub) is hard up against the stub axle flange where it runs.  Otherwise something hasn't gone back together right.

[Iain C]

I don't have a micrometer but both together would be under 1mm thick.  If it's potentially the hub seal, shall I just let that bed in for a couple of hundred miles or so and have another go at getting them on?

I can feel the endfloat, but pulling the shaft outwards results in it coming to a firm stop leaving enough room for the circlip only.

The truck drives fine, the hub bearing seems fine with the wheel on, and with brand new discs and pads (so caliper pistons all the way in) there's not much room for error, or the pads might not have gone back in the calipers ok...

[Les Henson]

I put one of the flange bolts in the threaded end of the driveshaft (it's the wrong size, but if you press downwards it catches on the thread). Press downwards to catch the thread and pull outwards and you will find the driveshaft end will come out further. You'll then be able to put the shims and circlip back on.


Les.

[Range Rover Blues]

Ah, the pads and disks, could have been enough to do it.

Check it again once you've driven the truck.  If you leave it what will happen is the CV runs out of it's bearinng and the bearing wears with a step, it wears quite quick if the endfloat is big.  The CV is also running out of line which can cause wear in things like the diff splines, though TBH not for the want of 1mm.

It will cause excessive wear in the outer drive member if left though, so check it quickly this weekend, I supect the shims will go back in then.

[Iain C]

Les...tried that, no joy.  The endfloat is there, there is just not enough of it.

RRB, thanks, I'll try that, but bear in mind I could not get it back together even with the caliper off the truck!