AuthorTopic: Blower motor options  (Read 950 times)

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Offline paradigm shift

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Blower motor options
« on: December 04, 2007, 07:39:16 »
Right, went through a bit of a sloppy mud hole and my heater blower's packed up. Before I spend a chilly afternoon cleaning it out or replacing it with an equivalent part, is there an easy replacement with a little more oomph to it? I fancy actually being warm this winter without waiting for the trickle of heat to convect around the 110!  :lol:

Offline j.stobart

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« Reply #1 on: December 04, 2007, 17:37:44 »
I think Kenlowe do an internal heater jobby thingy ma jig, not cheap but better than the standard landy units me thinks  :lol:
EXCESSIVE USE OF FOSSIL FUELS,
BEATS RIDING ABOUT ON BLOODY MULES!!
(AND DONKEYS DON'T PERFORM IN MUD EITHER)

Offline Litch

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« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2007, 20:20:06 »
This one is covered all the time and there should be plenty of info if you do a search.


The standard heater is actually quite effective as long as it is working correctly however people seem to feel the need to adapt other parts rather than spending 30-minutes getting it all set up. A brand-new motor is quite cheap and easilly fitted however buy new foam-rubber seals for the bulkhead as they WILL be shot and require replacement.

Is the engine reaching correct running temperature? If it isn't then you can't expect the heater to kick out much heat however don't be tempted to block off the rad to make the engine run hotter as you then run a serious risk of overheating and all the problems that can cause.
Make sure the flaps are correctly set up and are actually doing what they should be doing. The inner often siezes in the outer sheath and when you move the lever the whole cable moves which does nothing to the flaps. When you are sure this is ok check that when a flap should be open is actually is and likewise, when it should be closed it is.  These are the most common problem and cures 90% of complaints about the heater.
Make sure the intake is clear of muck and the drain is functioning correctly, likewise check the matrix for the same.
A scoop makes a real difference when moving, it does nothing around town (however it doesn't make it any worse) but at anything above urban speeds you notice a real improvement in airflow.
Is the cab free of draughts? No point making the heater work properly if you have fresh air leaking in at every point.
Assuming it isn't a truck-cab and/or you don't always carry passengers in the back, try a fume curtain. Probably the most effective modification as you are heating a space only a fraction of that you were before.

Having said all that I see you drive a 110 and there can be a problem getting heat into the rear. To be perfectly honest I have to turn the heat down on my 90 even in the winter and if I was trying to get this heat into the back I think I would find it too uncomfortable in the front.
Probably you best option is just to fit a secondary heater in the rear, tee into the existing heater supply and extend the pipes through into the rear. Plenty of places sell a suitable heater (VWP for one), look at places that sell parts for kit-cars.
ONE LIFE, GET IT!

Offline bombx3

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« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2007, 22:11:13 »
my 200tdi heater works great after 5mins frost all gone gets very hot and the blower is perfect ,but a lot of people complain about them being rubbish
_______________________________________
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Offline Cassillis

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« Reply #4 on: December 07, 2007, 18:08:17 »
Quote from: "bombx3"
my 200tdi heater works great after 5mins frost all gone gets very hot and the blower is perfect ,but a lot of people complain about them being rubbish


Likewise Don't have a problem with mine at all. 1996 300Tdi Works a treat. :lol:
Graeme
Avise~La~Fin

Offline 4x4spud

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« Reply #5 on: December 07, 2007, 19:44:01 »
i have a cheap heater for sale
fail to prepare.. prepare to fail!



If it dont fit...force it. If ya cant force it...get a bigger hammer. If it breaks...it probably needed replacing anyway.

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