40mm Body Lift

[stuntman]

Hello everyone, I'm looking at a 40mm body lift for my 200tdi,

Can someone give me a list of parts required for this swap. I know I will need:

Body spacers x10
Extendend bolts x10 (what size and length?)
Extendend brake lines x5 (where from and how much, also what tread?)

Can anyone give a list of what else is needed please along with a price and supplier? Please  :lol:

Also I want to lift the rad up and not just use spacers to keep it in the same place?

HELP HELP HELP HELP, this is going to be done over the holiday period!!!!

Thanks every one for the help!

Andi K

[wizard]

This is a guide i put together to go with our body lift kit.
I will have a look at the rad mounts and see how they fit on the bottom, as far as i can remember i think the rad just has two locating pins underneath.
I have a selection of body lift parts in my ebay shop http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Wizardbilt_W0QQsspagenameZMEQ3aFQ3aSTQQtZkm

regards
wizard

 

A body lift is not as straight forward as it may seem. You need to do a bit more than put in a set of spacers under the body mounts. This is a basic guide to lifting the body on a Discovery and can be use for other lifts as and when required.

The first job you need to do is replace the five flexible rubber brake lines.

There are two on each front wheel and one over the back axle.

If you install a two-inch body lift I would recommend having plus 4 inch extended brake lines fitted.

 

Below is a list of “other” parts required to do the job.

10 body spacers

10 long bolts (3/8 unf x 6 inch long)

4 rear floor support spacers

4 extended body tie rods

2 radiator mounts

2 rear bumper brackets

2 front bumper brackets.

 

A few days before you begin your body lift its advisable to spray the mounting bolts with a good quality penetrating oil.

 

Begin with taking off the bumpers, or just the plastic end caps if you want to lift the bumpers at a later date. Bear in mind that the bumpers are attached to the chassis so once you have lifted the body you will have a 2-inch gap between the body and bumper.

Remove the 4 body tie rods; these attach the seat belts to the chassis.

Slacken off the steering column bolts; don’t remove the bolts, as the splines on the shaft will only need to move about 10mm as the body is lifted.

Undo and remove the 5 body mounting bolts on one side, and remove the nuts on the bolts on the other side (leave the bolts in position)

With the aid of a Hi Lift jack begin to lift the side with the bolts removed. Periodically check that no electrical wires etc are being pulled out of place; also keep an eye on the air filter pipe work as this is mounted on the body. The clutch pipe work will need to be kept in mind as this is also attached to the body. There is enough slack in both of these components so no extra modifications should be required.

 

Once you have gained enough lift you can start putting in the spacers. When one side is complete continue with the other side. Secure all the body mounting bolts once all the spacers are in.

 

The rear floor support spacers bolt onto the brackets on either side of the rear suspension spring, and support the floor !

 

The radiator is chassis mounted so when you have lifted the body fit the two top mounting spacers onto the two pins located on the sides of the radiator.

 
Attach the extended body tie rods.

Check the steering shaft and re tighten the bolts. Lift the bumpers as and when required.

[pux]

I will probaly get flamed for this, but unless your fitting massive tyres why do a body lift :?  :?  :?

[boss]

I will probaly get flamed for this, but unless your fitting massive tyres why do a body lift :?  :?  :?

i agree, no more suspention travel and worse on side slopes. more hassle than a suspention lift.

[wizard]

Why fit a body lift ?

well firstly it looks cool.
You certainly can fit bigger tyres much bigger tyres.
You wont notice much difference on a side slope, unless its about 45 deg in which case body lift or not you will still crap yourself.
It is just as easy as a suspension lift to install.
There are no extra stresses on the propshafts etc as with a suspension lift.

did i mention it looks cool.

Regards
wizard :twisted:

[Bulli]

i had 35's in mine with cut arches and a 2 inch lift!! how big you wanting to go??

i wouldnt do a lift unless you really need the space as Pux and Boss said there isnt much benefit.

why a body lift, springs arent that expensive and will give inprovement in handling both on and offroad if you get the right springs.

[dazzawhipple]

I done my old disco I lifted the body to keep the suspension standard

Dont lift the rad as it lines up the viscus fans, I cut and added a spacer on my steering shaft which was coded welded (and keyed) Also whatch out for the filler/ bent pipework, the engine wires that go on the bulkhead and the fuel filter may require a drop plate....

Darren

[Bulli]

so why did you want to leave your suspension standard, why did you need a lift?

[chris9119]

so why did you want to leave your suspension standard, why did you need a lift?

1. Approach and departure angle  :idea:
2. It looks cool  8)
3. Because he/we could  
4. It looks cool  8)

And in case I've missed anything, it also looks cool  8)  8)

[Bulli]

so show not go then? okidoke

[chris9119]

so show not go then? okidoke

 :!:  :!:  :!:  yum what  :?:  :?:

[Bulli]

as in the slight increase in approach and departure angle isnt worth the effort and you arent improving offroad performance whilst making the disco higher actually decreases on and offroad performance.......

[stuntman]

I am not looking at doing any extreme side slopes and nothing very high speed, I will however be going deep wading and mud plugging.

I was very impressed with Chris's truck and want to follow along the same lines.

I'll be lifting the body 40mm and suspension 2" so 90mm in total then moving on to 265 tyres.

My main goal is drivable everyday with good pay and play capability without be an all out comp truck.

[Bulli]

265's will look lost on that size of lift. as you arent lifting the engine or air intake by doing a bodylift how is it going to help when wading.

derek from Lrs has the same as you propose with a 4 inch suspension lift,

give him a call.

[mentalmoshio sophs V8i]

265's will look lost on that size of lift. as you arent lifting the engine or air intake by doing a bodylift how is it going to help when wading.

derek from Lrs has the same as you propose with a 4 inch suspension lift,

give him a call.

ive chatted bulli alot on msn

he nows is stuff.

4 inch springs will roll more in the corners .body lift controls the centre of gravity with stiffness . im going down that line with 265 on pics soon.

REMEMBER at least 5 inch longer brake pipes

[stuntman]

Goodridge hoses all round, it just so happens I have a trade account ahd they should cost me all of about £0  :twisted:

I just need to find out specs first of the standard items, ie bsp or metric thread, thread size, standard hose length, inner diameter of the hoses etc

[Bulli]

wow trade never meant free when i was in the bike trade....can i have a mile please lol.

seriously though they are worth doing but dont go too long as the tyres will rub em

[clbarclay]

As bulli says there is a lot to be said for just cutting the acrhes to fit bigger tyres, evan with a body lift the shape of disco arches are not suited to bigger tyres. However I have found a number of practical advantages having done a 40mm lift that have nothing to do with asthetics.

1 It raises the brake master cylider allowing enough room for 2" raised damper turrets one the drivers side and a relocated airflow meter on the passangers side. So I would have had more trouble trying to fit the dampers if I hadn't done the lift.

2 The simple symetrical design of my rear bumper (home made) is just too high to fit without a body lift and allow the tail gate to fully lower.

3 The increased gap between chassis and body makes it much easier to clean the bowls of the machine.

4 I find the sills and corners are more likely to catch the ground than the chassis on rough ground so despite no change in minimum ground clearance there is still a useful increase in clearance.

5 40mm of body lift doesn't raise the CofG as much as an extra 40mm of suspension would

6 Whilst on suspension, with a relativerly standard setup (leaveing 3 links and spherical bearings out of this for the time being) there is only so much downward travel so by not reducing the upward travel with springs/spacers there is more useably suspension travel.

7 There is more room fit a winch (low line) behind the bumper/grill without dooing too much radical changes.

8 I have space to raise the fuel tank relative to the chassis helping protect it without adding weight.

Give me a while and I will probably find some more.

[stuntman]

Thanks Chris, I have a very good network of engineers and even some motorsport engineers who have/ are deliberating some of the changes I've put forward. Ah the joy of having an engineering supply company to run  :P,

Bulli, I end up supplying alot of goodridge to companies in notts and derby, generally a little word with a few freinds sees some nice parcels arrived FAO of Andi   ,

Air intake is already taken care of by the snorkel complete with home made breather system for the axles, trans box, crank case and gearbox all running up inside the snorkel.

Electric fan will installed onto the rad, removing the viscous fan unit.

The fuel tank idea is a good one chris, I never thought of lifting that aswell. I may borrow that idea when I've had a look at it :)

[Bulli]

i would be interested to know what motorsport engineers have to say.

there are many variables and i have gone to electric fan and back to viscous. I find the visous is perfect and works under all circumstances...electic dont like deep water unless you spend a fortune on them.

I also noticed no improvement in economy...everyone reckons 10%ish but i couldnt tell a diff on either performance or economy.

You clearly know you own mind but i would always go the suspension route first.

as for not planning on extreme side slopes , i dont think anyone does. You often find yourself in situations that force you to drive side slopes...the most common cause of rolls(in normal offroad driving) is a slip whilst on a sideslope rather than just driving till it falls over. You are likely to bottle it way b4 it rolls lol....i know i do.

oh and to back that up ive seen numerous rolls and have recovered a few rolled trucks in the past. The joys of marshalling events!

[stuntman]

I bet you've had a few white knuckle rides Bulli! Primarilly I'm doing it because I can, it will be coupled with a suspension lift, and full bush renewall, I really enjoy making changes to motors, my old Volvo 240 drift car hade megasquirt and a garret T25 strapped to the side with the beginings of an electric diff lock system, but I sold it before the diff was done, I just enjoy changing and building things, something I probably share with everyone on here  :twisted:

Thanks for ideas everyone, I'll keep you all informed on the progres