AuthorTopic: diesel leak on td5  (Read 872 times)

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Offline discodee

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diesel leak on td5
« on: March 21, 2008, 16:01:16 »
Hi ive got a diesel leak coming from the block that the fuel temperature sensor is attatched to on my 99 td5  I cant see exactly where as its a pain in the a## to get to, does anyone either have a diagram or a better picture than the one in the haynes manual and any ideas where it can be coming from and why maybe a perished oring or something and how do I get to it without being a contortionist any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks and cheers the noo,Don

you can kid a fool,but you cant fool a kid

Offline freelanderpx54

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Re: diesel leak on td5
« Reply #1 on: March 22, 2008, 00:20:41 »
Check the part carefully and preferably order it from Landrover to ensure you get the correct one. Then, using a decent socket set - make sure that there is one of those knuckle joint thingies in it remove the offending regulator. To do this, lie on top of the engine and reach down one handed to the offending part. The more you say "gosh this is fiddly" the longer it will seem to take. The refit time does not bear any resemblance to the amount of time to get the damn thing off.

You will only notice the various cuts and scrapes on you r hands and arms when you have a wash - don't wash = no pain  :shock:

It is a pain of a job to do but is nigh on impossible to do from under the engine so have fun :doh:

Offline Jimbo

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Re: diesel leak on td5
« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2008, 11:08:46 »
As above, I ordered my fuel pressure regulator (FPR) from LR - but through my local independant, worked out much cheaper - get the gasket as well !

Removal is a right pig, a long narrow 10mm ratchet spanner is useful (I don't have one  :x), as is a long extension wobble bar, I used a 3/8 drive version as it's easier to get it into place. On mine ('03 MY), the new FPR came with some of the fuel lines attached - but its easier to use the lines that are already in place (unless the leak is from a pipe union). The fuel cooler gets right in the way - I spent a while thinking that it would be easier to remove it, but it's just as hard to get out as the FPR  :roll:

Wear gloves - unless you don't mind stinking of diesel for days after, and have a container ready under the car to catch the diesel that comes out when you finally get the last bolt undone !!!

When its all back together, prime the fuel system - turn ignition on, fuel pump will run, and you'll hear fuel bubbling at the head (check for leaks), fuel pump will stop after a while, turn ignition off, back on and let the pump prime up again. I did this three times before the bubbling noise stopped. Then fire it up - and check for leaks again.............hopefully all will be well, and you'll no thave to suffer the stench of diesel everytime you go driving !

Jim
Jim

TDV6 HSE D3
Defender 110 Td5 Hard top, BFG MT's, and no EGR either

http://www.hertfordshire4x4response.net

 






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