Webber carb question

[baron von ledwidge]

I just bought another landy off a friend and he has detached the carb and half fitted a webber crab, i was wandering if anyone had any fitting instructions for this of could give me any pics of one fitted? Alsoshould a 2.25 petrol have a cut out bar on it as mine doesnt seem to retract
thanks
aaron

[lightweight-love]

If you search google for weber 34 ICH carb or maybe on here url find some, diagram more helpful, u do need an adaptor plate to go from solex to weber tho.
if you need a service kit for it dingocroft do one for about a tenner. Good luck!

[Rich_P]

Weber 34ICH, belongs on an 1100cc Ford eurobox from the history books, not a 2286cc Land Rover engine.  :doh: You'll be disappointed by its lack of performance.  ;)

[Saffy]

Weber 34ICH, belongs on an 1100cc Ford eurobox from the history books, not a 2286cc Land Rover engine.  :doh: You'll be disappointed by its lack of performance.  ;)

The original poster might be talking about a dual venturi Weber fitted to some early 90/110 's which is a bit more tricky to fit along with its manifold? *shrug* only person I know who had one of them was Nobber.

The 34ICH is a direct replacement for the Zenith 36IV, it's Webers universal carb and it is not their best effort Was marketed as "economic" but this turns out to be due to the restricted gas flow and lean jetting - which is not particularly a good thing for performance.  I didn't have much issue with mine but some say it can suffer from icing up horrendously. My carb worked but I soon changed back to the preference of a *decent working* Zenith as fuel economy was worse with the weber!

 I can't remember anything special about the adapter plate, it's a spacer to lift the unit up on the studs.

I have looked through my stuff but can't find the sheet that had tuning instructions , if I find them later I will post em up.

[Saffy]

here is the fitting/adjustment instructions  for the weber 34ICH

http://www.101fc.net/files/weber.pdf

(It's copyrighted weber document but as weber freely distribute it to the public I do not think  it infringes forum rules as long as it's not changed/edited/sold)

[baron von ledwidge]

WOW thanks forthe responses, itsjust the standard single port webber, it is fitted with the adapter plate but was just removed to becleaed and he didnf finsih re fitting it, ill post some pics up later today to see if that helps ayone just seems to have a few little bits missing
thanks
aaron

[baron von ledwidge]

Heya this whole world of pretrol is still kinda confsing lol, i think the carb is all fitted up now, i  have attached all the pipework tho im getting a lot of sediment in my filter at the mo, my chocke cable seems to be stuck solid are these available from webber?
also is the choke arm meant to return with a spring or is it all cable movement?

Is there a simple way to check all the electronics are working eg, spark plugs and stuff,
thanks
aaron

[Defender]

The Weber Carb fitted to my old Series 3 was a nightmare when it came to icing up.  :x  It didn't even have to be below freezing to do it.
Some journeys it would repeatedly ice up & I'd have to keep stopping every few miles to let it de-frost before i could continue.
I eventually managed to get a different Weber Carb from Automotive Componant Remanufacturing.
I think it was an ICEV type. It had the facility to connect it up to the vehicles cooling system & this helps prevent icing up in cold weather.

[Rich_P]

Heya this whole world of pretrol is still kinda confsing lol, i think the carb is all fitted up now, i  have attached all the pipework tho im getting a lot of sediment in my filter at the mo, my chocke cable seems to be stuck solid are these available from webber?
also is the choke arm meant to return with a spring or is it all cable movement?

The choke is cable operated, but I think it should feature a small return spring to add resistance (although I do not think it would prevent the function if it wasn't fitted).  I think it is the wound up type and goes on the shaft.  The choke cables are also supposed to be lubricated every now and then, and to do this you disconnect the cable and its surround from the carb, and disconnect it at the dash end and pull it out.  I don't know what you need to disconnect to remove it on a Series 3, but on a late 2A the dash has to come out to undo the lock nut for the cable surround and to disconnect the orange choke warning lamp sensor.

Is there a simple way to check all the electronics are working eg, spark plugs and stuff,
thanks
aaron

Well, it depends what equipment you have.  I have a load of testing equipment for petrol engines.  Timing is supposed to be ideally set up statically, but to check the advance and retard is working properly then the use of a strobe light is ideal.  There's also point gaps, to determine the strength of the spark and also the condenser (known as capacitor in today's terms) has to be replaced every few thousand miles.  Oh, and worth noting that a standard ignition system is not electronic.  ;)

Then there's of course mixture, something best set by ear to find the sweet spot in the engine idle.  The engine must be running on the idle jet and not the main jet (main jet takes over at around 1,000rpm I think), and just adjust the mixture to find the smoothest and quickest idle pace.  Then adjust idle speed accordingly, and repeat process until you get the ideal settings.


Old petrol engines are a lot more complicated than the diesel engines of the same era.  It's only in very recent times that diesel engines have become just as complicated if not more than the petrol engine.  :doh:

[baron von ledwidge]

ah okies, well the distributor looks new and so do the ht leads, i think the warning lamp is in the dash pannel and the choke is fitted below the dash facing dow towards the gearbox casing,  i think ill have to keep tinkering with it i tried to tow start it ont he way over and the fuel pump is working but i guess this is not as cose to runnign as on the diesel lol.
thanks for your help so far and ill keep playing

should the petrol ahve the cut out bar that sits next to the ignition or does this mean that this petrol was a diesel at some point?
thanks
aaron

[Rich_P]

Cut out bar?  I don't understand what you mean.  Are you talking about a throttle linkage shaft that spans across the bulkhead (engine side)?

[baron von ledwidge]

no on my diesel i have a cable engine cut out that isa bar like a chocke that you pull out next to the ignition barrel, the petrol has the same thing but it just seems to be stuck out i wandered if it was meant to be there and if so what it was for would it be the standard choke?
thanks
aaron

[Rich_P]

It should be a simple pull out knob that can also be pushed back in.  A photo would help.

[baron von ledwidge]

just uploading some photos now it doesnt seem to want to push back in ill pop a link up in a bit
aaron

[baron von ledwidge]

There are photos uploaded now
http://www.flickr.com/photos/14144290@N04/?saved=1
thanks
aaron

[Saffy]

petrols do not have a "cut out bar", my guess its either remains of a previous heavy oil engine setup or someone has added DIY hand throttle.

[Rich_P]

Intersting, you have both of the choke cables still fitted, or at least the handle pieces.  :-o  The one on the bulkhead, below the dash, that is where the choke sometimes ended up when someone fitted a Weber.  The one on the steering column is the standard location.

[baron von ledwidge]

ah ok thats cool the one on the steering collumn would be where the cut out is ont he diesel, that bar is stuck and i think the one below is for the webber carb, i just wasn't sure if the engien ahd a cut out but evidently not, thansk for your help ill keep playing i think next step is add a bit of fuel in the top of the carb and see if its all workign otherwise
aaron

[baron von ledwidge]

OK ive checked the sparks etc there all good, and i put some fuel into the carb and it does fire up, could the fuel be locked on its way in, the fuel in the tank doesnt smell off but ill try and pop some of it in the carb to test, is it qorth tryign to service the carb or should i just get another one?
aaron

[lightweight-love]

If you by hand push down the throttle linkage on the carb with the air filter off you should see the jets squirt a mist of fuel vapour, if nothing then easiest way is to disconnect fuel pipe going into weber and try start engine if fuel squirts out petrol pump is ok(btw empty petrol pump sediment bowl if not already). if jets not squirting but fuel going in then id suggest u check weber has all lil linkage bars n things n nothing missing, service kit costs about a tenner from dingocroft, includes lil internal filters, pump seals, major seals etc and when u strip it all can check float level is working-some break and sink this stops carb from working.
Hope this helps!

[baron von ledwidge]

Ive had it all apart today and cleaned all the lines looks like the previous owner has cleaned it with something water based as there was loads of corrosion inside and this was blocking the holes up, it now runs a bit tho its very spluttery and has some very savage backfires, how hard is it to set up?
thanks
aaron

[lightweight-love]

hi any improvement yet? is carb making a nice mist of fuel vapour or trickling out?, backfiring can be timing of dizzy, tappets, fuel mixture etc,
How far into the carb is your fuel mixture screw?

[baron von ledwidge]

yeh well basically i had anoterlook and uncoveredits own little world of problems as the guy beforehad sol it to me with all the dizzy lead in the wrong order,and when i removed the head gasket found a healthy covering of mayonaise, so i stripped it all down yeasterdayand re fitted the head re did the dizzy leads and itwill run on all cylinders, but if i nail it, it cutsout, so im gonnare strip the carb and set it up, does anyone know how to do this?
thanks
aaron

[lightweight-love]

nice! b4 strip carb is ur vacuum advance set right? cud be over advancing it when hard accelerating? stripping carb straight forward, dingocroft do kit and has instructions too! better to take off carb and do on bench-lots of lil screws!

[baron von ledwidge]

yeh ive not set the carb up yet, i stripped it down the other day and was just carefull witht he gaskets lo,i think it was all clear but i may give it another go and see ifi can sort it are they a major fuss to set up?
aaron

[Range Rover Blues]

The Weber 34ICH was a Ford replacement unit for OVH (kent) engines form 1100 to 1600 1v ie non-GT engines.  I had one on my Escort (still got it) and it was a good carb, though no more economical it is quite a well made carb and more capable on tuning than the Motorcraft sonic idle carb it replaced.  I've seen them on 2.25l Series engines and was a bit surprised given that it is about at it'slimit on a 1600 OHV ford Escort engine.  I'd have been more tempted to fit a 2V carb for a good mix of economy and power.

[Rich_P]

I've seen them on 2.25l Series engines and was a bit surprised given that it is about at it'slimit on a 1600 OHV ford Escort engine.

They were marketed as an economy carb, and this was done in theory by just restricting the airflow into the engine.  :doh:

[Range Rover Blues]

Restricting, probably is but then the most economical carbs do have the highest air flow through the throttle throat.

I think it was an off-the-shelf carb though that fitted the manifold/space rather than being designed to get the best form an engine.  It's probabnly happy coincidence that its very similar to the Frod 1V carb it replaced.