AuthorTopic: Rear Body mount  (Read 1065 times)

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Offline Cheggs

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Rear Body mount
« on: April 29, 2009, 16:32:36 »
Just went to fit my HD rear Bumper :D, and found I needed to patch the rear cross member :(, got that done  :)but now I have found the rear body mount needs welding  :'(, looks like access is blocked by the chassis, has anybody got any advice about how to do this, this Disco is turning into a money pit, Its had a new rear floor, front bumper, rear bumper, rear discs, alternator, vacuum pump, fuel lift pump and back plate, but with what its cost me so far I might as well continue fixing the broken bits as sooner or later they will all be done, any way any advice appreciated Thanks.
1994 Discovery 300 TDi Auto 
1972 Series III w\Prima Perkins     
       
1965 sIIa (Project)
1991 Discovery 200 TDi (Now sold)

"I'm not  mechanically minded but, I have several hammers"

Offline barmiebrumie

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Re: Rear Body mount
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2009, 17:32:13 »
Hi, Not a bad job to do providing your good at welding, if its a petrol my advise is to take the tank out, with the rear bumper off you can cut the old mount's away new ones can be got off ebay, best is if you can lift the body slighty you can slip the new ones in weld them up new bolts back in & bobs your uncle, if you were more local I could help as I have done loads of welding of late for a lot of members

Hope that helps

John
John.

Offline Ja1983

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Re: Rear Body mount
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2009, 20:44:41 »
.... Its had a new rear floor, front bumper, rear bumper, rear discs, alternator, vacuum pump, fuel lift pump and back plate, but with what its cost me so far I might as well continue fixing the broken bits as sooner or later they will all be done, any way any advice appreciated Thanks.

save up for
central locking woes - cheap, but fiddly
front inner wings
rear inner arches
sills
door pin bushes
waterpump
headgasket
propshaft rubber donut
and a whole host of other delights!

Disco`s are great!! :) but once things wear out/rust other bits follow like lemmings off a cliff!

been there, done that (almost all of it now) and people just dont see the value of the work, and make stupid offers when you come to sell it.... "theres an "r" reg for 1500 in the paper, and you want £950 for yours! - buy the R reg, spend £2 keeping it road worthy, and sure you`ll feel great watching mine get fed and washed, and never ask for anything else!

...sorry, just had a comedian on the phone with regards to my disco for sale!

My advise is you may aswell get a full cross member (either new/good second) and kill 4 birds with one stone.. its more likely easier and quicker, despite how daunting it may seem!

and once you`ve done it, protect it with as much paint/waxoyl as you can lay your hands on, and you shouldnt have that to worry about for a good few years!

..also dont expect the plastic trim to go back on, as no matter how hard you try, the body will droop a bit!

good luck


It has been said that, given enough time, a million monkeys bashing at a million typewriters would eventually produce the complete works of Shakespeare. Thanks to the Saxo forums, we now know this to be wrong

No oil leek = No oil left!

Offline LiftedDisco

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Re: Rear Body mount
« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2009, 06:42:09 »
Hi

Fear not - as Barmiebrumie says, it's not that bad and really depends on the scale of the rot in your current body mount...

In fact, the hardest part was getting the old bolt out - new fabrication was a piece of cake....

Maybe I was lucky, but I still had some vestige of steel left in the old body mount (strangely, only one side had rotted out, the other mount was fine!) - the process involves removing rear bumper, the plastic trim that sits over the bumper (excellent opportunity to get new plastic rivets to hold it back in place when refitting, 60p each of Ebay..) and the body mount bolt and bush.

I also took the rear section of exhaust off to improve access.

By now you should be able to see what you are up against and start stripping out the rot.

We made up a template from an old cereal packet to overlay the remaining good metal - three sides and a tab onto the chassis.  Cardboard is cheaper than steel and you can check, check and check again until all the dimensions are right.

Then to the steel - praise be to Screwfix for their 1mm cutting blades - fold it to shape in the vice and Bob's your Mother's Brother.

Tack into place, weld up, paint and reassemble.

Treat self to well earned cup of tea

Hope this helps
Discovery 300 Tdi - 2" lift, side exit exhaust, HD bumpers, T-Maxx 9500, removable tow hitch, snorkel and 235/85's

Discovery 4 Commercial - very standard but very nice!

Freelander 2 TD4 - Fun Prevention Officer's

 






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