AuthorTopic: Fitting New bulkhead  (Read 996 times)

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Offline Disco-andy

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Fitting New bulkhead
« on: June 02, 2009, 13:15:46 »
Ok after finding first some cracks ( filler :evil:) in my nice solid bulkhead,  i hit a windscreen on a tree and pushed the hinge through the bulk head, then this week the flap hinge fell off too!


Its all nicely done filler!


So after weighing up the options iv decided its time for a new bulk head, iv managed to find a perfect condition 98 one, that was removed from a braker at 6 months then stored for 10years inside. :lol:


My question is how long is it gong to take to fit it and what other bits do i need to buy in the way of seals before i do.

I am thinking if i spray it up wax oil it and have it ready i can do it in a weekend ? and paint the chassis while the fount is striped?

so far i though ill need,  windscreen panel to bulk head seal, and new door hinges.

Is there any threads on this any were?

any help gratefully welcomed.

Thanks andy
« Last Edit: June 02, 2009, 13:45:37 by Disco-andy »

Offline V8MoneyPit

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Re: Fitting New bulkhead
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2009, 16:18:48 »
If you have an LT77 gearbox, you will need to change the centre section from your old bulkhead. There will also be various holes to cut/fill to mimic an earlier bulkhead. There is a thread on here somewhere and I've done some pictures on my web site that may be of help:
www.sjnash.co.uk

You will need vent seals, windscreen lower seal, possibly shims for the footwell to chassis brackets, various plastic push in nuts,..... you might choose to replace the heater sponge seal and the one between the lower dash and bulkhead. There is also a seal between the column bracket and bulkhead. And gaskets between the pedal boxes and foot well tops. Might be worth getting a couple of new bolts for the outrigger mountings too.

If you buy one of the cheap hinge sets off eBay or the likes, be careful. The counterbores on the ones I got were all of varying depths so half the screws (supplied with the hinges  :rolleyes:) didn't reach through! Early vehicles used 5/16"UNF and later ones used M8, so make sure you get the right combination of screws and J nuts! I ended up using stainless steel (A4) countersunk socket screws and cutting them to the correct length for each hinge! But then the csk screws have a larger head diameter than the raised top originals, so they all had to be ground to a smaller diameter to get them in!

Have fun  :lol:
Rgds
Steve

"Reality is wrong. Dreams are for real."

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Offline Disco-andy

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Re: Fitting New bulkhead
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2009, 22:13:39 »
sorry should have said, looking at im prity sure its from a late 300tdi rather than a td5, so most hole shoyuld be in the right place :? . But i haden't thought about the gear box tunnel so may have some fab to do there.


this is it, 300 or td5?




Hinges sound like a pain so il have a look at the price of genuin befor i buy.

thanks for your help my list of what to buy is getting longer!  I should have it next tuseday to start preping. if paletline do there job better than my previous experience :?

Offline V8MoneyPit

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Re: Fitting New bulkhead
« Reply #3 on: June 03, 2009, 10:25:46 »
That's an earlier one, so should be a lot easier!
Rgds
Steve

"Reality is wrong. Dreams are for real."

Land Rover build:
www.daisythediesel.com

Photos (my other passion and weakness):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/v8moneypit/

Offline extreme90

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Re: Fitting New bulkhead
« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2009, 09:37:10 »
your gearbox tunnel will fit, just remove the diaphram off the old bulkhead and fit it to the new
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