33's

[mattyme]

33's... can i fit 33 inch tyres on a disco with 2" lift,
i realise ill have to cut out the arches and fit rubber arches on...

but what else would i need?

[clbarclay]

A friend recently fitted 287/75r16 Insa turbo special tracks to his discovery (can't remember what offset the wheels are).

The arches were cut and extended using Flexi arches, had a 2" ish spring lift, extended bumpstops and the rock sliders had to be shortended to mach the new wheel arch profile. This just about kept the tyres from rubbing, but the rears could still lightly rub at full articulation. This was solved by a body lift (IIRC 2").

This was with +2" extended damper. Longer dampers can result on larger tyres rubbing the inner wheel arches on discoveries and range rover classics which neither cutting the outer archers more or lifing the suspesnion/body further can cure. Increasing wheel offset (possibly with more lift) or trimming the inner arches are the only ways round that, but both have their disadvantages.

[mroxo]

Extended bump stops for a start.
I have had 33's on a disco with a 3 inch lift, 5 doorwith trimmed arches and it was fine with extended bump stops and castor corrected etc.

Bloody BIG mind  :clap:

[mattyme]

ive also got 25mm spacers on already... this stops the wheels rubbing on full lock with 2657516 tyres.

why do i have to work on the castor correction, i understand why i need extended bump stops tho! lol

i think a bit of rubbing on full articulation could be lived with as it wouldnt be at full articulation very often really.

[stuvy]

i think a bit of rubbing on full articulation could be lived with as it wouldnt be at full articulation very often really.

Not like in your avatar lol

i have 33's on mine and havnt cut the arches, yet

last time i took it off road the arches rubbed and rubbed until my tyre slowly went down, word of advice no matter how strong you are it not fun changing aheavy tyre in the mud!

[mattyme]

i think a bit of rubbing on full articulation could be lived with as it wouldnt be at full articulation very often really.

Not like in your avatar lol

i have 33's on mine and havnt cut the arches, yet

last time i took it off road the arches rubbed and rubbed until my tyre slowly went down, word of advice no matter how strong you are it not fun changing aheavy tyre in the mud!

i see what you mean about full articulation!! lol  :dance: :dance: :dance:

i think i may go for the 33's before cutting the arches and see how i go with them. if youre on 33's without any cutting of arches with a 2" lift im sure i can and think about cutting the arches at a latrer date if need be.

[stuvy]

the other thing i forgot to say is, mine are 12.5inches wide and i dont have spacers yet, or wide arches lol

but they touch the chassis so not good off road as i cant full lock it with out a horrible noise!!

[wizard]

Put a body lift on and you wont need to cut anything.

wizard :twisted:

[mattyme]

Put a body lift on and you wont need to cut anything.

wizard :twisted:

even better idea!!

[barmiebrumie]

I happen to have a set of 33's on 10' wide modulers for sale  :idea:, looking for £200 if your interested



John

[landroverkeith]

Ive got 265 75 16`s on modulars with a 2" lift and camel cut, they rub like you wouldnt beleave at the min at the slightest bump and extended bump stops..

But i do have another 1" spacer set to fit and a arch kit to go onto hoping that will stop them scary noises lol should be ready for billing bash i hope

 :-k bodylift mmmm  :-k

[stuvy]

how easy and or hard is a disco body lift?

[wizard]

Here is a guide I put together a while back.

wizard :twisted:

Installing a Body Lift.

A basic guide for a Land Rover Discovery Tdi

 

 

A body lift is not as straightforward as it may seem. You need to do a bit more than put in a set of spacers under the body mounts. This is a basic guide to lifting the body on a Discovery and can be use for other lifts as and when required.

The first job you need to do is replace the five flexible rubber brake lines.

There are two on each front wheel and one over the back axle.

If you install a two-inch body lift I would recommend having plus 4 inch extended brake lines fitted.

 

Below is a list of “other” parts required to do the job.

10 body spacers

10 long bolts (3/8 unf x 6 inch long)

4 rear floor support spacers

4 extended body tie rods

2 radiator mounts

2 rear bumper brackets

2 front bumper brackets.

 

A few days before you begin your body lift its advisable to spray the mounting bolts with a good quality penetrating oil.

 

Begin with taking off the bumpers, or just the plastic end caps if you want to lift the bumpers at a later date. Bear in mind that the bumpers are attached to the chassis so once you have lifted the body you will have a 2-inch gap between the body and bumper.

Remove the 4 body tie rods; these attach the seat belts to the chassis.

Slacken off the steering column bolts; don’t remove the bolts, as the splines on the shaft will only need to move about 10mm as the body is lifted.

Undo and remove the 5 body mounting bolts on one side, and remove the nuts on the bolts on the other side (leave the bolts in position)

With the aid of a Hi Lift jack begin to lift the side with the bolts removed. Periodically check that no electrical wires etc are being pulled out of place; also keep an eye on the air filter pipe work as this is mounted on the body. The clutch pipe work will need to be kept in mind as this is also attached to the body. There is enough slack in both of these components so no extra modifications should be required.

 

Once you have gained enough lift you can start putting in the spacers. When one side is complete continue with the other side. Secure all the body mounting bolts once all the spacers are in.

 

The rear floor support spacers bolt onto the brackets on either side of the rear suspension spring, and support the floor !

 

The radiator is chassis mounted so when you have lifted the body fit the two top mounting spacers onto the two pins located on the sides of the radiator.

 

Attach the extended body tie rods.

Check the steering shaft and re tighten the bolts. Lift the bumpers as and when required.

 

 



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On 28-May-07 at 13:18:38 BST, seller added the

[mroxo]

ive also got 25mm spacers on already... this stops the wheels rubbing on full lock with 2657516 tyres.

why do i have to work on the castor correction, i understand why i need extended bump stops tho! lol

i think a bit of rubbing on full articulation could be lived with as it wouldnt be at full articulation very often really.

The castor correct sorts the steering and axle geometry back to how it was designed to be ie SAFE!
A bit of rubbing is too much. If you are going to do a job right do it properly and dont take chances or cut corners. Down to you really but every time the tyre rubs you run the risk of blowing it and lets face it they aint cheap. The even better reason is if the tyre rubs and deteriorates ( with or without you noticing) you have the potential for a blow out on the road and you dont want to play blow outs with 33's on mate. By the way I used to be a manager for a well known tyre retailer and have seen plenty of damaged tyres blow out. They are after all the only thing between you and the tarmac.

Dont get me wrong I am no winger but seen to many people take very silly chances with their safety instead of spending a few more quid or doing a job properly. Not worth the risk imho

[Lyndsey731]

I bought a body lift kit of Wizard a couple of months ago, follow the instructions and it's a doddle!

Gav

[Jake]

I ran a 2" lift with Flexi arches on 33" Simex without any issues.
I never found the need for extended bump stops though
Now back on more sensible 31.5" mud terrains
 :D

[mattyme]

ive also got 25mm spacers on already... this stops the wheels rubbing on full lock with 2657516 tyres.

why do i have to work on the castor correction, i understand why i need extended bump stops tho! lol

i think a bit of rubbing on full articulation could be lived with as it wouldnt be at full articulation very often really.

The castor correct sorts the steering and axle geometry back to how it was designed to be ie SAFE!
A bit of rubbing is too much. If you are going to do a job right do it properly and dont take chances or cut corners. Down to you really but every time the tyre rubs you run the risk of blowing it and lets face it they aint cheap. The even better reason is if the tyre rubs and deteriorates ( with or without you noticing) you have the potential for a blow out on the road and you dont want to play blow outs with 33's on mate. By the way I used to be a manager for a well known tyre retailer and have seen plenty of damaged tyres blow out. They are after all the only thing between you and the tarmac.

Dont get me wrong I am no winger but seen to many people take very silly chances with their safety instead of spending a few more quid or doing a job properly. Not worth the risk imho

what you said makes a lot of sense. and youre right, it needs to be done properly to remain safe. its not just me on the road... there are other people too.

thanks for all your replies. they have certainly given me food for thought!!