Diff bearings

[Axetamer]

My defender has been making quite a lot of transmission noise lately mostly under drive and does go quieter on the overun, but can't tell how much with special tracks on, I've replaced all the uj's on the front and back props, the transfer box was  replaced about a year ago with a recon unit, tonight I've crawled underneath and noticed the drive flange where it joins the diff on the front axle seems to have a lot of up and down play in it, have checked the oils and all is ok with no leaks

I'm a bit green on diffs so questions- Is there a bearing in the "nose" part of the diff where the mudshield and seal is? and if so is it easy to change? or is it a bit of a ball-ache being the front axle?

[extreme90]

there are two bearings in there, but to replace them it will require the diff to be stripped
you will then have to set the pinion height back up aswel as the preload and backlash
dan

[Axetamer]

A secondhand diff seems the easier option then

[Axetamer]

Whats the easiest way of getting the front diff out?

[KK Mobile]

Whats the easiest way of getting the front diff out?

drain axle oil + Undo prop + remove caliper + undo swivels from axle & slide out with half shaft intact + undo diff bolts & replace with new one then ;)

[Axetamer]

why undo caliper?

[graham2306]

why undo caliper?

Because the brake hose will break when you swing the swivel assembly away from the axle to get the half shaft out of the diff.  Not that I have done it of course  :lol: :lol: :lol:

[Axetamer]

Can't I just pull the shafts out about 4-6 inches from the diff by unbolting the "endcaps"on the axle, leaving the calipers etc in position, as I've got braided and extended hoses to the caliper, and then use a bit of wood wedged inbetween the axle and endcaps to prevent the shafts sliding back into the axle, and perhaps use some rope tied to the spring and caliper to prevent the lot from rotating and putting and strain on the hoses?

[Mark_Solesbury]

On the back, yeah.

On the front, the CV joint is fixed to the half shafts, which is sat inside the swivel housing.

You have two options...

1 - strip it completely and rebuild the swivels at the same time, which means removing the caliperrs, wheel bearings, hub, stub, CV and half shafts

2 - remove the calipers, undo the bolts from the chrome ball to the axle, and slide the entire assy out a little to clear the diff. You need need to 'remove' the calipers completely. Just remove the 2 bolts that hold it to the swivel housing, and cable tie it to the radius arm. You can leave the hydraulics intact.

I opted for option 1, because I needed a new CV on one side, and a bearing on the other :)

[Mark_Solesbury]

FYI, I stripped and rebuilt my front maxi drive a month back.

These are the bits inside - excuse the pics :)

You can see the bearing, this is the top one.



Then there is a larger one on the actual pinion. This sits on the inside of the casing.



Ashcrofts do a bearing kit for £40ish....

[Axetamer]

Thanks Mark, now I have a better idea of how to get it off the car.

I've been out today and bought/ordered the bits I think I need: pinion bearings, seal and shield and outer bearings, gasket,  I haven't stripped it yet but  I am hoping the gears and pinion aren't too badly worn. I don't want to spend too much on rebuilding so if its a bit noisey that's ok, as I'm hoping that ARB's will be going in next year

I found this guide to building diffs:

http://www.crowndiffs.co.uk/faqs.html#how_build

Does anybody have preload and torque figs, mines 1988 and I think its a 10 spline, .....the early diff?

[extreme90]

im sorry but ive never undone my caliper when doing this same thing
remove the track rod
slide the assay out a few inches till it dropps and tie up the caliper

[Mark_Solesbury]

i always find that because of the weight, the caliper wants to go to the bottom which puts pressure on the lines.

Thinking about it, you could jam the brakes on and make chock the wheels

[Axetamer]

I'm gonna do it saturday, weather permitting.....I'll do a pictoral if I remember

[clbarclay]

I'm with Dan on this one, why remove the calipers when a piece of string is very effective at defying gravity.

I have got fed up with either splitting brake lines or removing the top swivel pin bolts and the resulting leak required to remove the calipers. Not for changing diffs, but removing the hub to change wheel bearings etc.
What I did what was (and probably still is) common mod in rallying and turned the holes in the brakets holding the brake lines to the swivels into slots. Just remove the caliper bolts and slaken the brake hose lock nuts is all thats required now to remove the calipers, no more mess and less wasted time, plus sods law means that I have not had to remove the calipers as much :lol:

[Axetamer]

Finally got around to doing the diff removal tonight:

Up on stands and drain oil, off with wheels, undo steering arms and link:

[Axetamer]

Undo the 7 bolts holding the swivels to the axle and withdraw about 5" using cord attached to the suspension mount to stop it pulling the brake hose off, undo prop and the 10 bolts holding diff to axle and out she comes

[Axetamer]

the diff out I think its just shot bearings