RUSTPROOFING: ADVICE ON FIRMS & WAXOYL NEEDED

[John Clayton]

Does anyone have any views on whether a slightly rusty mid 90s 300TDI is worth blowing £540 smackers (inc VAT) on it to get it professionally Waxoyled by this chap?:
www.before-n-after.co.uk

Can you do a reasonable job yourself and how long does it take?

Is it worth hiring a compressor to spray the WAXOYL in?

Are there any other firms that do a decent job cheaper than this?  [It is a HUGE amount of money]
This place seems cheaper but it's too far north:
http://www.jrclassics.co.uk/prices.html

[Henry Webster]

It certainly is a job you can do yourself, but its mucky and smelly and if you want to do it right takes some time.

Personally I wouldn't spend that much money to get it done unless the car is a minter to start with...  I am sure this chap does a good job, but at that price you can virtually buy another Discovery!  I am sure a local garage might do a less thorough job for much cheaper.

A compressor will certainly make the job easier, although I believe they do sell a hand pump kit, but I haven't tried it.

Even with a compressor in my experience it is worth keeping the Waxoil container in a bucket of warm water or next to a heater (though careful, because it is nominally flammable!) because it works much better when it is warmer and therefore thinner.

Get the car as high as you safely can, the get under it and get into all the nooks and crannies!

Remember also that Waxoyl is not a one fix job, you'll have to reapply it, probably every year.

H

[les baty]

a chap told me he mixes old engine oil into the wax oil to make it a bit thinner and easier to spray on

[lurch_917]

a chap told me he mixes old engine oil into the wax oil to make it a bit thinner and easier to spray on

sorry les but i wouldnt advice this as if you add oil the wax oil then wont harden and becomes just like cheep underseal that will last untill the first big wet drive

[bogie]

Ive done a few over the years,i used to charge £100 all in.As long everything is dry there aint a problem,only takes an hour or so.

[bogie]

I wouldnt trust those pictures anyway they look far to perfect .

[roccodog]

I found its best to mix it with white spirit to thin it down a bit, the white spirit evapourates and allows the wax-oyl to harden properly.
I've done my 90 and disco myself its worth spending a weekend on the job so you can jet wash the underside let it dry and spend a day spraying wax-oyl. If you can get your hands on a compressor its worth it, I bought the hand pump and ended up throwing it in the bin and buying a compressor.

[bigwood]

Last time I did my Disco with Waxoil I got as much muck off with the pressure wash  at work and then blasted off all the rest of the muck and loose underseal with a blow gun. The compressor at work unregulated will take old underseal off at one hit. I had thought about using Dinatrol this year but as I can get Waxoil at trade from my local Halfrauds it wins every time. :D I agree with the idea of diluting slightly with white spirit, about half a cap full per gun and keep the can in a bucket of hot water.
Believe me its no muckier job than fixing old buses for a living ;)

[John Clayton]

Nice one -thanks Guys!

The next question is:
"For surface rust on chassis/underbody, would you recommend
a) painting it with a rust killer paint then using a Waxoyl type treatment on top
b) painting it with Hammerite paint then using a Waxoyl type treatment on top
c) just Waxoyling straight onto the metal (less resilient to underbody abrasion e.g. when the vehicle 'grounds out'?)

[roccodog]

Nice one -thanks Guys!

The next question is:
"For surface rust on chassis/underbody, would you recommend
a) painting it with a rust killer paint then using a Waxoyl type treatment on top
b) painting it with Hammerite paint then using a Waxoyl type treatment on top
c) just Waxoyling straight onto the metal (less resilient to underbody abrasion e.g. when the vehicle 'grounds out'?)

wax-oyl will "kill" surface rust so once the area has been pressure washed and dried off just wax-oyl straight on top.

[John Clayton]

What do you think of this person's advice on the web?

"Remember, nearly always, a chassis will rust from the inside to the outside because water gets trapped inside the box and hollow sections. All chassis can be easily repaired with professional skills using plating techniques and repair sections, so readily available from the advertisers in this magazine.
Waxoyled for the future
Whether your chassis is in first class order or just repaired. I strongly recommend that before applying Waxoyl treatment, you carry out the following preparation to give reliability (saving cost at each MOT time!), longevity (so many people buy a Land Rover product to last a lifetime!) and safety (so you chassis doesn't collapse when you do a bit of serious off-roading or heavy towing!)
At most low points of your chassis or crossmembers you will find a small drain hole. In between these holes or each side of them drill further 10mm holes, say 400mm-450mm apart. Then enlarge the holes with a tapered enlarging bit to around to about 20mm-30mm diameter. Carefully file the swarf left by the drilling and wire brush the whole of the chassis. Be sure to wear goggles/face mask and use gloves.
I work on the basis that if water is going to get in and lie on the hollow section of the chassis along with the mud, then let it run out before it drys and stays in there for good!
Now power wash the chassis inside and out using these nice large holes to get the nozzle in, working from both directions. Having got all the crap out, let the vehicle stand for a week or two in a dry ventilated place to let it all dry out.
Give a final wire brush of the entire chassis, being careful of brake pipes, fuel pipes and cables, followed by a good brush down or use a airline blow gun.
Hand paint or spray the whole lot in 'chassis black' or smooth black Hammerite in however number of coats you wish."

Also, for a 15 year old chassis/underbody with the normal patches of surface rust, would you recommend:
a) painting it with a rust killer paint then using a Waxoyl type treatment on top
b) painting it with Hammerite or 'Chassis Black' paint then using a Waxoyl type treatment on top
c) just Waxoyling straight onto the metal (less resilient to underbody abrasion e.g. when the vehicle 'grounds out'?)

[Saffy]

landrover specialist near me used to charge 450 for a discovery treament. They spend a good chunk of the day on it too. Steam cleaning, drying and wire brushing, inject the cavities such as sill/chassis internals, door/bonnet/boot frames and pillars with clear wax, lightly spray the under bonnet bodywork with clear wax. Then apply black wax to the outer chassis/sill areas along with the floor, footwells and wheel arches of the vehicle. Finally clean the brakes and wash/polish the vehicles bodywork and brightwork. They used several cans of wax. Poor kiddie didn't look to healthy after doing it that's for sure. Seems pricey (beyond my budget anyway) but I think they earned the money. Plenty of place will charge you a hundy, stretch a tin to cover whole vehicle (where customer can see) and have job done in a hour or so and show you a pile of empty tins to make you happy.

[John Clayton]

The garage in Port Stanley can do a Disco for about £100 inc Waxoyl and labour using a compressor.  However, it turns out that this is for doing only the chassis and only its external surfaces!

I negotiated £200 to have the entire underbody done with black Waxoyl inc. the wheel arches, and the best they can do to spray Waxoyl into the chassis members.  They might need to enlarge the drain holes so they can get the sprayer in, I suspect.

[bigwood]

Rust proofing done last weekend. One can of black waxoil for the underside arches etc, half a can of clear in the chassis, sills  and box sections. There are loads of holes that a Seely injection gun fit into. Truck now pongs of waxoil, better smelly than rusty. :roll:

[John Clayton]

here's some gen on 'rust converter' treatments to consider before painting and then waxoyling over the top:
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/welding-fabrication-painting/14749-rust-treatment-jenolite-kurust.html

I think underbody rust needs something like the above, or this:
http://www.bilthamber.com/hydrate80.html

before being primered, painted, and then Waxoyled, if it's going to last well long term.

[Steve shep]

Best advice i can give is MRM SERVICES.

Mick & his team gave my landy a full chassis wax inside & out for less than half your quoting.
After spending hours descaling & cleaning he then sprayed inside &out the chassis,but he did'nt stop there
he done axles ,turret tops,wheel arches,tow bar etc etc.The underside of my 90 looks better than it left the factory!
cant recommend him enough

[John Clayton]

Thanks -is this him?

http://www.mud-club.com/forum/index.php?topic=37194.0

Unit W3 James Road
Tysley
Birmingham
B11 2BA

Contact  Mick  07816 303541

[ChrisW70]

That's him John, he's moved about three doors up now, Unit 68 Bizspace industrial estate

[John Clayton]

BTW, I would have used BEFORE-N-AFTER but he had my Dad over for £100 (it might even have been £200), so I wrote him off after that one.