looking to bobtail

[martyn]

Hi this has probably been asked about previously but with so many threads i cant find it .
Anyway i am looking to bobtail a disco 1 how much is the best to take of whilst not making it too extreme.
What about sva mot dvla etc I'm confused about the points system.
Looking to lift it 2inch is it best to put Castor correction arms and extend brake lines.

I have lifted an R/R 2 inch and it didn't handle very well.

All help appreciated

[andyb]

What about sva mot dvla etc I'm confused about the points system.

You will need and SVA as you will modify/shorten the chassis when you start bobtailing.

Other things to consider are the fuel tank and exhaust.

Looking to lift it 2inch is it best to put Castor correction arms and extend brake lines.

Don't use castor correcting arms, they will make front prop UJ angle even worst than just the lift. The two best solutions are redrilled swivel housing or a rejigged front axle casing.

Extended brake lines (flexible hoses I assume) are not a bad idea. I would recommend fitting stainless steel braided ones as they are far more durable and will improve pedal effectiency.

HTH

[martyn]

Thanks for the tip on the brake hoses,
I don't understand the tip on redrilling swivel housing or re jigging axle casing can i trouble you for some more info on these.

i ave been reading the landy mags and lots seem to be fitting these Castor correction arms and i thought in my ignorance they were part of what was requ with the lift.
its a pity your so far other wise I'd come downfor a look.

[boss]

use the tank from a 90 and just dont fit the rear section of the disco exhaust.

the reason you need the props with the carster corected arms is becasue the prop moves with the radius arms. if you were to move the radius arms and then rotate the axle around to its previous position(castor corected arms) then the UJs will be at funny angles. my bobtail had +2" HD springs with no weight it gave it something more like a 3" lift, props were fine.


is it a truck or a full cab your making?

[andyb]

I don't understand the tip on redrilling swivel housing or re jigging axle casing can i trouble you for some more info on these.

I assume you understand how a suspension lift will affect the castor angle on an Land Rover.

The redrilled swivel housing has the holes in a slightly different location such that the castor angle is back to normal without affecting prop shaft UJ angle in the way that castor correcting radius arm can (as Boss has explained above).

The axle casing solution is similar but the ends that the swivels bolt to are cut off and reweld back into a slightly different position so that the castor angle is back to normal. When I do it the casing is internally braced.

I prefer either solution over castor correcting arms as they leave prop shaft UJs at a more acceptable angle. The axle casing rejig also leaves all you axle components as standard.

HTH

[martyn]

its going to be a cab so all the bits like slings ropes etc will stay relatively safe inside theives and skallywags are every where.

as i dont know where to cut and weld the swivel bolts etc i think ill go for the different props.
the cutting and welding at the back and making good is for me the easy part as im an air craft fitter. but this front axle bit is sucking the life out of me at the minute

[boss]

that really made me laugh! you could be in  alot deeper :lol:

you dont want to weld the swivvles, the idea is to machine the holes to bolt them on further around the flange.


honestly, its ok with the standard arms, and there isnt a company out there who fabricate ones that are as strong as the standard units. gwyn lewis bends them to re gain the castor but IIRC at college they were saying that bending cast materials is a very dodgy deal. they will also be slightly shorter.....unless he provides some sort of spacer. gwyn also supplies the wide angle props but i would go to a breakers yard and look for the prop off of a disco2 as its a double cardon unit. but i think it may need shortening(not hard to send off) better unit and probibly the same price at the end of it.

[martyn]

thanks at last a bit of sense.
was it you who chopped that disco up the green one was it 2 yrs ago? did you do a front shunt ?where is the thread? i've been looking

[tack43]

IIRC at college they were saying that bending cast materials is a very dodgy deal.

They are forged so there's no problem heating and bending them

[boss]

yes that was me.
the origional build thread is probibly lost to the forum.
the "new" thread is labled "daisy 2.0"

http://www.mud-club.com/forum/index.php/topic,65976.0.html