Park with the wheels straight ahead. Jack up, wheel off etc.
On an ABS car the brake flexis are secured to a removable bracket on the top of the swivel, otherwise you need to "ease" the calliper out of the way when you take the disk off, so get a freind to help at this point. The calliper is held on with 2 bolts, loosen them but leave them justy in.
On an ABS car remove the rubber end cap on the outside end, remove the circlip underneath it and save the shims alongside it.
Remove the 5 bolts holding the drive member on.
Bend back the locking tab and remove the outer bearing nut. Remove the tab washer ans the second nut.
Now the disk/hub is ready to come off, lift the calliper up and ease the disk off the stub axle. Put the calliper back for now.
Check the bearings etc if you are confident to do so but remember that if you change them they will effect the size of shim needed on the end of the CV (you already removed them).
Now you should be looking at the stub axle. It is held on by 6 bolts and the bottom ones are holding back CV oil! remove them carefully, as you do check the threads for metal contamination, if present the bolt has pulled the thread out of the swivle which is cast and therefore softer. Sorry but the swivel is wrecked, it can be fixed with a helicoil but not in the next 30 minutes, if it's one of the bottom bolt holes as mine was the car may not be safe to drive!
Remove the stub axle, muchos oil spillage here so catch it with something.
the cv will pull out along with the half shaft, they need separating with a vice and soft hammer, the CV is brittle so don't use a hammer.
the new one should click into place with a soft tap on the end.
Before rebuilding check the state of the oil seal journal on the half sahft, check the fit of the new CV inside the stub axle and the condition of the roller bearing inside the stub axle and it's oil seal.
Refit the CV/halfshaft and fully engage, then carefully fit the stub axle over it with a new gasket or silicone paste.
Fit the 6 screws with silicone sealer or threadlock, threadlock with protect the female thread from licking up as already described.
Rebuild the car pretty much as a reversal of how it came apart.
The bearings should have a running clearence on them, there are a variety of ways to adjust them but as long as there is some clearence in he bearings they will be ok.
When you come to refit the circlip however the shims beneath it need to be checked, the edfloat of the Cv joint should be slightly greater thanm that of the hub itself, otherwise the CV joint is controlling the endfloat of the hub with the weight of the car on it and will quickly fail. If it's too loose the CV drops out of it's bearing which also can fail. Check the endfloat by screwing a drivemember bolt into it for a handle, the end is threaded inside. You can use a DTI to check endfloat but if you are careful then feeler guages will suffice.
You should use a new tab washer between the 2 hub nuts, you can grip them with water pump plyers if you don't have the box wrench. Don't be a heathen and use a hammer/chisel to move the nuts.
If it's an older car with the fused drive member/outer halfshaft then it's a bit easier because the CV does not clip to the inner halfshaft and you don't have the CV circlip to adjust.
Have I forgotten anything :-k
Probably :roll:
