rear step ideas

[lambert]

Hi all.

Since fitting my NATO hitch I have had to loose my fixed rear twin step which I had bolted to my rear cross member in the two holes directly under the bottom hitch holes.I liked it there as it was both out of the way but also when loading sheep if ones foot slipped between the open tail gate and tub, the step offered enough purchase to avoid them becoming trapped. It also allowed me to reach into the back without needing to open the lower gate. Now I know I could bolt it to the top spare holes in the tow bar but it would interfere with the electric for the trailers and would loose  the protection against trapped legs. I could also weld it to the new hitch's packing plate but then it is a pita to get off if I wanted to.

So any clever solutions would be appreciated.

[Saffy]

Fit the nato hitch to a dixonbate slide plate, bolt your steps back on as normal. fit the hitch when needed, have another plate for farm pintal and another for a tow ball.

[lambert]

Thought about that idea but my ladder section is off a disco I think so does not give enough upwards holes for the sankey to sit right and given the whole setup so far has cost a bucket of money I'm hoping to try and make do and mend with what I have to hand, if you follow. I may end up sectioning the step and frying it to the packing plate, that may well be the simple answer.

[Saffy]

Breed long legged sheep that can step into landy.



Did you say you had a mkiii? some had their hitch raised higher so they can fit a raised wolf defender and sit properly (nose down)... wondering if you had one. I had a choice and went for standard. It's hard enough opening the rear door with it as it is.

[lambert]

That sheep concept is disturbing me.

The sankey is a mk3 but it is also on a long loan off a mate so I get what I get and having not collected it yet I don't know too much about it. I do know it's on 6.50's not 7.50's and I think the lunette is between the a frame arms but beyond that I dunno.